Perhaps one of the most memorable moments for me on this trip was when we were leaving. Trust me, I donāt mean it in a bad wayā¦.
Through out the day, family members came over to spend time with us before we had to leave. Visits began early and continued through out the day. Multiple family members came to the airport to see us off. They stood outside watching us until we were finished with checking in and seeing our bags off. They stayed and watched until they knew we were okay and off to security.
For the first time, the kids got to experience what we did multiple times while growing up. They felt the warmth, sincerity and unconditional love from so many people. Simmi was in awe of how many people came to see us off. Gagan and I were feeling super blessed that family came from out of town just to spend a few hours with us.
It was a bittersweet see-off. Wonderful memories and new relationships formed – especially for the kids. So blessed the kids had the opportunity to experience India and family and finally understand what we always talk about. AND they now know what we mean by āit smells just like Indiaā!!
Tractor with one-of-a-kind canopyLunch in KhachrodAs cute as this little one looks, sheās somehow even cuter when she speaks!House decorationStreet sweetsFruit shoppingSome locals who were kind enough to poseAll kinds of fruits
I have learned the meaning of this word all too much in the past two days. Indore is riddled with ājamā everywhere. Getting from point a to point b has become near impossible by car, auto, 2-wheeler and even foot.
Jams being caused by anticipated arrival of politicians, religious functions, constructionā¦. Apparently the population of Indore when from 1,000,000 14 years ago to 4,000,000 today.
We have lost so much time sitting in traffic, making u-turns, purposefully going the wrong way against oncoming traffic, etc. It has been entertaining listening to our auto drivers screaming instructions to everyone.
This is not the Indore I remember. Itās too scary to walk on the roads – 7 of us walked single filed while dodging traffic yesterday. Note to future travelers – add 2 hours to every visit/errand you plan to do just for traffic.
Hard to believe our Nepal-India touring is done. Sadly we are leaving Goa for our last few days in Indore before heading home.
We have visited many places, seen many sights and met many incredible people along the way. People who have shown kindness, humility and graciousness in their own ways. People I hope to remember for many years.
I wonāt forget the Soaltee Kathmandu dining staff who actually did a farewell for us before leaving – cake with a message wishing us a safe journey. The Soaltee Nagarkot staff who were so helpful in helping us get medical care.
In Amritsar, Chef Mani was very generous with his food knowledge. He also me the secret to his incredibly yummy Amritsari Chole. We are connected on WhatsApp and heās offered to help with any food questions we have in the future. One of his staff members, Dipali, packed us fruits and snacks for our travels.
At the Golden Temple, I will remember the kind children who were asked to give up their spots for Jeet and me to do seva. They patiently waited and told me to take my time.
In Goa, we became friends with some of the servers – Debashish and Suraj in particular. At times, they work 20 days continuously without any time off. Both jokingly said they would come to the US and visit us. I said absolutely and gave them my phone number – I donāt think they expected that.
On the hotel beach, a group of ladies were selling fresh coconut water, other fruits and offering massages. We bought coconut water from them at 6 pm and they said it was their first sale of the day. Jeet and I told them we would be back. The next morning we walked to the beach and they saw us from far away and started waving. We bought 5 more coconuts from them and they were so thankful and happy to have made a sale in the morning.
All of our drivers and guides were so kind and generous with their time. Our last driver in Goa, Isaac, drove 20 minutes back to the Goa airport to deliver Simmiās purse she left on our rented bus. He didnāt need to do that by any means, but he did it without any hesitation.
I wonāt forget the lady simmi and I met in a street side shop selling clothes in Goa. We were chatting and she told us her daily routine. Very rigorous and no breaks – day starts at 7 am and goes on until 2 am. I didnāt bargain with her – as long as she continued to educate her children. She promised to and then told us all about her three children and their interests.
We meet so many people along the way in life – some leave a lasting impression. I am thankful to have met so many of those people on our journey.
On our way back from shopping, we got swallowed up in a jam so thick, youād have thought a Smuckerās 18-wheeler jackknifed and spilled its guts everywhere.
Our cab stuck in the middle of an intersection with no escape route in any direction. The best you can do is centimeter along (India uses the metric system after all) and honk to pretend like itās doing something.
Traffic Cop Mostly WatchingNapping Before the Rigor of ShoppingLetter E Found!Dried GoodsStreet FoodsShopping for Menās SuitsHung Fabric GoodsMule Took a Break So G Stepped InMotorcycles RuleWomenās Tops for SaleDark (But Safe) AlleyWell Traveled Surana Shop for Condiments and SnacksMunchies And MoreBangles for SaleA Local Helping Another Local Load
View from house looking at driveway into access roadPretty sight along the drivewayBuilding blocks across from drivewayGagan posing for his new album cover of āLost and Confusedā, his first solo release in years. 95% discount if you use code AINTGOTACLUE.Touristsā¦.you can spot āem from a mile, er, street away.
Interestingly (or amusingly) on our way home from the airport, I noticed this declarative sign in town. No, the city has not changed its name, but it does need a search-and-rescue for the missing letter, which also amusingly sounds like a segment on Sesame Street: Todayās show is brought to you by the letter, E.
Weāre leaving Goa today (as Iām writing this) and Iām reminded of the many, many wonderful things, some even exceeding my expectation. But the horse-and-carriage of a van, looking like a full-sized tour bus chopped in half and serving as our only mode of transportation, was, however, not one of those wonderful things.
The suspension system for wheeled vehicles, invented so many civilizations ago, somehow escaped the design specifications of this van. Sitting over the second axle of this van is like saddling up on a fully galloping horse chasing down errant cattle. If not fastened, small children and body parts fly like youāre on a turbulent flight hitting an unsettled pocket of air.
Itās not hyperbole to describe some bumps as lifting oneās body out of the seat, resulting in momentary āfree fallā as one astute fellow traveler noted. If you have seen the original Exorcist where the possessed girl bounces on her bed with limbs a-flailing, you get the idea.
Not helping matters is the fact that speed bumps in Goa come in sets of six. Yes, you read that correct. Six bumps. Two axles times six bumps equal lots of thrashing.
For what itās worth, though, I do respect the hustle of our driver. For his own comfort over these speed bumps, as soon as he clears his front axle from the last of the six speed bumps, throttling the gas with great care and precision, itās full-on, rocket ship-like acceleration as soon the front wheels touch even tarmac. Unscathed by the experience each time around, I wonder if our driver is even aware of the plight of his passengers. Still, our tip for his services will be generous.
Ready to Enter the TempleShort Walk to TempleIn Line to EnterInside at Last!Food Served 24/7/365Where Food is Made (1/3)Where Food is Made (2/3)Where Food is Made (3/3)High View of Temple and Surroundings
Huts of Unknown PurposeSome Locals Watching Us as We Travel by VanTrees in Foreground of a Farming FieldMore Locals Watching Us Watching ThemTree Farm Possibly Transporting FirewoodHouse Amid Farming LandColorful MuralA Group of Men Up to Something Colorfully Decorated TrucksMen on Bicycle Passing Roadside Debris Carrying Goods the Old Fashioned Way
The LaLiT Golf & Spa Resort, Our Hotel in GoaBeach Next to LaLiTDinner at Sufna with Live Music by LocalsFlowers in Court of LaLITPortuguese-Inspired Residences in Fontainhas, Goa.Papayas in Fontainhas, GoaFish MarketBuying Tickets to See Dolphins Waiting for TicketsDolphin Sightseeing BoatsReady to Go Meet the Dolphins Anchored Boat in Harbor A Boat Coming Back into Harbor After Sightseeing Passing an Anchored, Empty Boat on Our Way Out to See Some DolphinsDolphin FactsLunch After Sightseeing Pizza Hut AdBikes and Pay Toilets Casino!Hotel LobbyStained Glass WindowTourist Sitting in Wing of LobbyLadies Filling Garden with WaterOne of the LadiesTropical Plants
While one of us recovers from a stomach bug and another stays back to nurse them back to health, the rest of us took a short trip to explore Goa. more pics to come from othersā cameras soon.
Driving from South Goa to North Goa through the mountains.
Dolphin watching in the bay.
Simmi at the Fort Aguada lighthouse, built by the Portuguese in the 1600s. The moat surrounding the fort.
Wow. Just saw the news that there was a 7.1 magnitude earthquake in Tibet, not far from Kathmandu, where we were mere days ago. We remember our tour guide showing us centuries-old structures and temples that had to be rebuilt after major earthquakes. He told us that they preferred more frequent, smaller earthquakes over larger, more infrequent ones since the damage was less drastic. Not sure where this one ranks, but 156 people killed is tragic nonetheless.
We went from the Himalayan steppes to a coastal beach and gorgeous sunshine and warm breezes. Weāre going to hang here for the next couple of days to give everyone time to recover from the strenuous travel of the last few days. Canāt say we miss the snow back home.
After our flight from Delhi to Amritsar was canceled abruptly by Air India, resulting in us walking over two miles (no kidding, Jeet tracked it), we Ubered to a Hyatt in Delhi and Ree hastily arranged for a private luxury bus for our weary group the next morning via our amazing travel agent (more on him in a separate post).
The next morning we set out on a nearly nine-hour drive through Haryana, stopping for an authentic Punjabi lunch at Mannat, a chain of authentic modern dhaba style restaurants in Punjab and Haryana. After which we all dozed off in the car due to the heavy carb consumption.
At Ambala, we had to detour through fields, farms and villages because a strike had shut down a portion of the highway. But that in itself was an unexpected and pleasant experience, because it let the kids get see firsthand what villages and rural areas really look like.
We arrived in Amritsar after a brief stop for chai in a different haveli style area.
After a solid nightās sleep, we were off to visit the golden temple on Gurpurab, one of the holiest days of the year. No surprise that the gurudwara was extra crowded, but despite that, the calm and peace that pervaded everyone was palpable. Additionally, we got a thorough tour of the temple and even had an opportunity to do seva (service) in the kitchen, which serves over 100,000 hot meals daily to visitors. Iād imagine that number was much higher on the day we were there.
A short walk from the temple, we visited the Partition Museum, which was an altogether sobering experience. Learning about the political machinations that displaced millions after Indiaās independence, reading firsthand accounts of the grueling journeys from Pakistan to India, families torn apart and how the spirit of those displaced resulted in pioneers and new lifestyles hit close to home.
We then drove to Wagah Border, where there is a daily ceremony of lowering of flags and a āshow-downā between Indian and Pakistani soldiers. Definitely more theatrical than anything else, but very entertaining.
We ended the night with shopping for Punjabi suits and kurta pajamas. For. Two. Hours.
All in all, we packed in a LOT in a day, though if I had to do it over, Iād say we could easily have spent a couple of more days in Amritsar taking our time to explore this amazing and history-laden city.
Weāre now hanging out at Delhi Airport (we can tell you where every restaurant, every coffee shop and every restroom is located since weāve been here four times now in the last week or so), waiting for our flight to Goa for some beach time.
Killing some time at the Delhi airport, I wandered across these choke hazards. Indian lore says that this sweet used to be square in shape and made in wooden blocks as far back as 10 AD. The story furthers tells of a village man who choked many times eating his favorite treat, which prompted the village high priest to declare in 11 AD that laddus shall no longer be square. He decreed that it shall be round for safety as he believed it would be easier to ingest.
Fast forward to 2022 AD when a man in the US choked violently almost to the point of suing his relative.
As a public service to help newbieās learn about the safety of eating laddus, I have created this scale called the Likelihood of Choking Rating (LCR):
LCR 1 – safe to consume without liquid
LCR 2 – safe to consume only with a preceding dry swallow
LCR 3 – have a warm liquid by your side
LCR 4 – if you want to disown a family member
LCR 5 – suicide
This year the laddu treat is celebrating its 740th year of existence. What could you do to make laddus better for you, too?
We just got back to Delhi waiting for our connecting flight to Goa. While Delhi airport has had its share of challenges, I do appreciate the normal height of the menās urinal stalls. Back in Punjab, all the native men are tall apparently as I had to tippy toed when using the āwashroomā. Or apply physics by aiming at an angle greater than 30 degrees to employ the parabolic trajectory to safely land the stream ofā¦well, you know.
A trip to India is not complete without the quintessential shopping experience where you sit on gaddis, have shopkeepers cover the entire surface with colorful clothing of intricate and delicate designs.
Rena and I have done this countless timesā-and itās been a blast every time. So glad that the kids and hubbies had a chance to have this experience as well. Everyone walked away with at least 2 new outfits/outfits to be stitched. One of my favorite elements has always been when the shopkeepers bring out the cold drinks, chai or coffee for you (they want you to get comfortable so you spend more money!!). We spent so much time there that we had to abort other shopping plans because the shops had closed!!
On our way to Amritsarāby road. At least an 8 hour journey. Super excited about the sites we will see along the way and for the chance to see the countryside. Sure will be a relief to get out of this suffocating fog/smog mix.
Feel sooooo bad for the people who actually live in this atmosphere. Hate to even think about the long term health effects and their shortened life expectancies.
At sunrise time Some improved visibility later in the morning On our ābusāThe view ahead
In the aftermath of this picture, I was able to clean my feet to pristine-USA condition. At the time of this photo, however, my wife didnāt want to sit next to me.
The fog/smog is soooo thick that this is the view from our room. Thatās not sky I took a pic of. Itās supposed to be the hotel grounds. Even getting the pic without reflection of my phone was not possible.
Delhi air at 7:15 am. See bottom right where the ledge is visible.
Cancelled flight. Going in circles around this huge a** airport to get luggage, new flights etc. If we get an early morning flight, that too may end up with cancellation issues again due to visibility problems. Letās see what magic Rena and Gagan have up their sleeves!
This one really brings back memories from previous India trips!!
Flight was delayed from Nepal to Delhi. Now, just found out that flight to Amritsar is cancelled tonight because of visibility concerns in Amritsar. Heading to domestic baggage to retrieve our checked bags. Trying to figure out next steps!!
(LITERALLY going from one and of the airport to the other!! AND no people mover in this direction!).
Now that we got through the serious part our Nagarkot stay, itās time to focus on the real reason we came to Nagarkot.
Nagarkot is a remote area, at an elevation of 6000-7100 ft!! Approximately 35-45 kilometers from Kathmandu, passing through Bhaktapur. After leaving Bhaktapur we started the ascent up the mountains. The roads got narrower and bumpier the higher we went. Neither words nor pictures can do justice to what we all were blessed enough to witness in this lifetime.
Not only were we surrounded by natureās majesty, but we also breathed air that was amazingly cool, fresh, and crisp. The hotel grounds were also beautiful, with gorgeous views of the mountains from our cottageās picture window. A daring person may even choose to enjoy the views from the infinity pool on siteāmind you, NOT a heated pool!! Or take advantage of the spaāas did Duffy, for his first ever massage, which was apparently an experience of its own!
As expected, the hospitality and service left nothing to be desired. The food was good, but less variety for the vegetarians in the group. It was more of a Chinese influenced menu. Not sure if it was because of the region, or because of the large group of Chinese tourists who also checked in the same nightāthatās what a staff member alluded to.
As I mentioned, Nagarkot is quite remote. The people of this area are known as Tamang people . The language they speak is different than whatās spoken in Kathmandu. The facial features are also more East Asian. (Duff felt like he blended in here more than in Kathmandu and even more than in India). They are described as being a self-sufficient group. They grow all that they consumeāproduce and meat. And hence do not have a reason to leave the area. We saw many tiered farms. The people here are said to be wealthier than people of Kathmanduābecause of all the land that they own. Here also, most families do want to send their children for educationāsomething else we may take for granted back in the statesābut some may not have the means.
Aside from the views and the general energy, one of the most memorable times I had here was when all 7 of us shared our thoughts and experiences of Nepal and what really made a strong impression on us, and what we will bring back with us to implement in our daily lives. So much bonding!! This is exactly what I wanted out of this trip for us all!
Nagarkot Photo Dumpāin no particular order. Effects on the mountains of sunset and sunrise were captured. (Pics Will come when I have better connection)
Flight to Amritsar cancelled! Our correspondents say it is likely because of low visibility in Amritsar and the family is scrambling to resolve this issue. More news coming soon.
Update! After walking to security from gate 60 we received permission to pick up our bagsā¦ from gate 60 so we went back andā¦ went back to baggage claim! We traveled roughly 2 miles according to google earth. We are currently waiting for mother to sort out a hotel and our upcoming travel to Amritsar.
Breathtaking and surreal views like never seen beforeāonly way to describe this place. The air was crisp, clean (and of course very thin!) and so fresh at an altitude of nearly 6000 ft. Most of us did experience some symptoms of adjusting to the higher altitude, some more than others. Almost to the point of seeking medical care, but thankfully some hydration, chicken broth, rest and meds helped reduce the symptoms.
BUT, that doesnāt mean we didnāt have to seek medical attention for other reasonsāand frankly speaking, the inciting incident had us all freaked out.
It all started when we decided that all of us would try and cross a 200+ meter long suspension bridge known as Rani Ka Jhoola. Once parked, one must go down a gravelly/rocky dirt road to get to the bridge. Itās a fairly steep downhill to get there. We had barely advance 15-20 ft when BAM!! Rena lost footing and slippedālanding on the right knee! (Those damn knees are taking a beating!!) Unfortunately, a decent sized rock decided it was going to put a nice gash in Reeās knee! The whole gang banded together. One got my first aid supplies that I packed, another got the driverās first aid kit. Someone else got a fresh bottle of water. And someone else helped Ree lay down and get as comfortable as possible (definitely didnāt need her OR anyone to faint!) while others chanted Navkar mantra with her.
My assistant (DT) helped as I assessed, cleansed, and dressed her wound while I was weighing our options on next steps and how to get her appropriate medical care in this foreign, remote place. Thankfully her joint seemed unaffected and she was able to get up with assistance and walk. And the injury was far from life threatening. So, those were all definite positives.
Needless to say, nobody traversed Rani Ka Jhula. Instead, we headed back to the hotel and asked the staff where we could get medical attention. They suggested we go to a clinic about 3 km further up. Once a plan was put in place and things were stable, we all took some time to feed ourselves and watch the sunset and witness a breathtaking sight.
During this time however, DT was not able to fully take in these sights as he was plagued with symptoms of altitude sicknessāheadache, weakness, body aches, tachycardia, GI symptoms etc. He was feeling so bad and weak we had to constantly remind and urge him to eat. Thankfully he had some improvement, and managed to get back to the room and rest while I went with Ree to the clinic.
After the sunset, Rena, Gagan a local driver took us to the clinic. Despite the situation, we were able to take in some amazing views on the way upā¦terrifyingly close to the edge of the rocky, bumpy road!!
Finally, we got there and informed the 2 ladies behind the counter why we were there. I showed them pictures of the wound. They quickly called the ādoctorā. While we waited for him, they took us back to the exam roomā¦.wow. It was both terrifying and humbling at the same time. We talk and complain about the US health system being brokenābut at least we have a health system and basic hygiene!!
One of the ladies came in the room, pulled out a syringe to draw up some lidocaine in preparation for suturing. Disinfecting the bottle was not about to take place until I asked for it. And what was the disinfectant?? It was a hazy liquid inside of a dusty, dented bottle labeled ā75% sanitizerā. As I questioned that, she reassured me it actually contained āspiritā (ie alcohol) in it. Ok. Being in the spiritual land of Nepal, I had no other choice but to muster up faith and to believe. (All the while thinkingāāwhy didnāt I bring our own supplies here?!ā)
A few minutes later, a gentleman arrived by motorcycle. Very kind person. Turns out he wasnāt a physician. Rather, he was a pharmacist and and H.A. (Not sure what that is)ā¦oh boyā¦.and not to mention language barrierā¦. The 3 of us looked at each other and quietly decided that we would not allow any suturing to take place here!
The pharmacist examined the area in question. Assessed her knee for possible internal injuries. And kept repeating āitās normalā āitās okā and I canāt recall what else. But the gist was that itās not so bad. He and I cleansed the injury with betadine and bandaged her back up. We paid him his fees and graciously took our leave as we made plans to go to a well known hospitalāDRIMā of Bhaktapur in the morning before going to the airport.
DRIM hospital (read about Dr. Iwamuraāhttps://www.iwamurahospital.com/overview/) is a privately run hospital. Dr. Binod took a brief history, formulated his plan, wrote us orders and supplies. Gagan went to register Rena and I went to the pharmacy next door and brought back supplies. Thankfully except for some foreign debris that needed to be washed out, all else was straight forward. Rena did end up getting a few stitches. We pooled together our remaining Nepali rupees for the fees. As we profusely thanked Dr. Binod for his care and compassion we walked out with a sigh of relief as well as some souvenirs (X-rays, doctors orders and notesā¦).
Did I mention how amazing Dr. Binod was?!
This whole experience was eye openingāwe already knew about differences in healthcare and availability compared to the USA. But to live it firsthand definitely puts things in real perspective. It reminds us of how fragile life is, and that not everyone has access to medical care in a timely fashion when needed. Thankfully this was not life threatening. I canāt even begin to imagine what the locals go through to get even to most basic of care. Iām also super thankful for the doctors who responded with recommendations and reassurances to my FB post on the Physicians Community page. One even offered to contact his orthopedic friend!
I do believe everything happens for a reason. And in this case, had we made it to Rani Ka Jhoola, I think we wouldāve had a much more serious situation with DT and altitude sickness. So Ree, thanks for taking one for the team!!!
But Fam-7, let me be clear now, no more injuries or anything elseāthis doctor would also like to be on vacation too! š (seriouslyā-ALWAYS here at your service, day or night, on the ground, or 30,000 ft in the air!). Love you allājust be well and healthy.
(Fyiāout of respect for weak stomachs, I am leaving out gory picsā-if interested, I will show you in person).
At the clinicāafter it was cleaned Gagan there for Rena (I was honestly worried about him passing out and having another situation to deal with!!)Another Angle After DRIM hospital today. Thatās some cool dressing he used!! (They let me keep what was not used)āSouvenirsā
Weāre getting ready to get back to the airport but Iām feeling a little wistful about not having more time in Nagarkot. But Iām grateful for the time we did spend here, despite a few of us having altitude sickness and a few other ailments.
Words and photos canāt describe the beauty and vastness of the majestic Himalayan peaks you can see from this village nestled atop the mountains. It must be experienced to truly do it justice.
Off to Thamel today for last minute shopping for early risers. Then heading to Nagarkot in the hopes of seeing the peaks of the Himalayas as well as the sunrise tomorrow morning before returning to Kathmandu for travel to Amritsar.
Words that come to mind when I think about my experience in Nepal these 2 days.
Hospitality beyond expectationāwhether it is from the hotel staff, our amazing guide, the driver, restaurant staff, shopkeepers or countless othersāso much positive energy, that one cannot help but return that positivity to the universe. The standard greeting is Namaste.
Hospitality: Greetings from our driver upon our arrival Greetings from our driver upon our arrivalGreetings from our driver upon our arrival
Energyāthe energy here is permeated with positivity. One forgets negative thoughts and feelings.
Spiritualityācenturies old Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas are found throughout the region along with the many followers. One will experience the frenetic energy of the Hindu temples and the calm and peace of the Buddhist temples. Either way, presence of a higher energy is inescapable. I was especially moved when we were blessed enough to experience the prayers and chanting by Buddhist monks.
Prayer flags Prayer wheelsLady praying at steps of a templeMonks chantingā-surreal and otherworldly experience Lighting candles on Jan 1 as an offeringāblessings for the New Year
Historyārich ancient history throughout this region (Kathmandu). The juxtaposition of ancient buildings alongside modernization. The history of Nepal has led it to become a melting pot of cultures which coexist in harmony. As a result of the influence and migration of Indians, Chinese, Aryans, Persian, Europeans and more, the natives of Nepal (Newars) are now in minority. The people of Nepal have features and appearances that are as varied as the nations that have influenced the country. The food is also reflective of this melting pot. Nepal is believed to have the best momos of all.
Momosā-soy sauce is not a typical condiment here. Seven story temple
Equality/RespectāNepalis worship goddesses first and foremost. Hence, women/females are highly regarded in society, and are considered the stronger and more important sexā51% vs 49%. As a result, it is a very safe nation for girls and women. Females will also be found in every line of workāmilitary, police, flight pilots, doctors, teachers, etc. A dowry system is non-existent. All girls are sent to school for education.
Organized Chaosācrowds, traffic, animals are found throughout. Yet, it is not a nervous energyāeveryone finds a way to effortlessly weave in/out to get from point A to point B. The laws in place contribute to this organized chaosāunnecessary horn blowing is against the law. As is driving faster than 55 km/hr. All drivers of 2 wheelers must wear a helmet (not sure why the passengers are not required to).
Beautyānatural beauty surrounds the area (unfortunately pollution obscures the view). Beauty of the history and ancient architecture. Beauty of the people.
Monkey as seen in Lalitpur Durbar square! It was climbing on power lines before sitting here.
This is a wood carving of a Hindu deity (I donāt know which) dating back to the first century AD (if I remember correctly). This was in the palace at Lalitpur Durbar Square.
This is one of the oldest temples in Nepal at Lalitpur Durbar square
Some guy
Prayer flags at Boudhnath Stupa. Taken slightly before a pigeon pooped on mom.
Prayer flags on a motorcycle in Boudhnath
A master of the Thanka art form painting on canvas
What a full day! Nepal is truly a gem in many ways. Our guide called Nepal a melting pot – and it really is. There are descendants from the natives or āNewarā, China, India, Tibet and more. There are distinct facial features of different lineage.
Weāve noticed Nepali people are very modest and friendly all around. The rich and not-so-rich live in the same areas. Women are highly regarded and considered equals (or as our guide said, women importance is 51% and male is 49% š) – thus making women safe and comfortable overall.
Juxtapositions are everywhere! Ancient history blended in with modern day amenities all around. At one second we are crossing a traffic filled road lined with all types of shops, and the next, we walk into an ancient stupa or temple.
One of the most interesting things I have learned is how earthquakes have hit Nepal regularly throughout history. Many of the sites we have seen have been partially destroyed by various earthquakes at some point or the other. Countries around the world have helped restore specific structures. Norway, Austria, Tibet are some of these countries.
Wishing everyone a very happy, healthy and peaceful 2025! Here are some pictures from my camera:
Wow. What a day. Began with a solid buffet breakfast at the hotel and then we were off to Pashupathinath temple, one of Hinduismsās most sacred ancient temples on the outskirts of the city.
That was followed by Boudhnath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the center of the city, where we also enjoyed an amazing lunch and a tour of an art gallery and the practice of thangka painting.
Then it was off to the neighboring town of Patanās Durbar Square, the site of ancient temples with scriptures dating back to 182 AD.
And back to the hotel for New Yearās Eve celebrations. Whew!
(New image format! Swipe right or left to see all the images in the gallery.)
A wonderful day to a wonderful night! So happy Gagan was able to come back to Kathmandu finally and show us his old stomping grounds. Watching Gagan take it all in made my day.
We had a nice rooftop dinner (brrrr) and came back to the hotel to find live music under the stars. The singer was amazing and seemed to know my playlist because he sang all of my favorites.
If you look carefully, you can see the snowy peak of the Himalayas in one of the pics.
Iāve been a bit lax in blogging, so itās time to do a dump!
What a whirlwind week it has been!! 40 hour journey from Silver Spring to Indore via London and Delhi, with a trip out into London during a 12 hour layover.
Indoreādays 1-4/5
So much love and gracious hospitality from numerous relatives filled our 4-5 days in Indore. (And scrumptious food OVER-filled our stomachs!!). It was so charming how DT quickly learned the tradition of manvarāwhich is an expression of hospitality and love in the form of offering food, feeding others. And so heartwarming to see the kidsā faces every time they discovered something new. The food is as expectedāscrumptious!! Making up for 14 years of missing out (unfortunately the waistline is proof!!).
Samosas Jalebis YUM!More scrumptious food and amazing family time
(Somehow I earned the duty of morning chai for the gangāthe first day I made chai 5-6 times!!! But Iām a quick learner, and started making at least 10 cups at onceā-with my signature masala turmeric, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, LOTS of ginger, and now also Vimla Bhuaās chai masala! YUM!)
Morning Chaiā-breakfast round ONE!!
Now, one cannot come to India and not shopāat least I canāt! But shopping in India has been transformed from 14 years ago!! High end malls with designer labels and brand names and so much more as we experienced in Phoenix Citadel Mall. Then the countless shops on the roadsides! Such a dizzying array of shops! Thankfully, we managed to get a good start on the shopping alreadyābut still so much more to buy!!
Phoenix citadel
Aside from the obvious changes in infrastructure, shops, cleanliness and modernization seen in Indore, the most striking change is the traffic. It reminds of the traffic weād seen in Mumbai decades agoā-Indore is definitely living up to its title of āLittle Bombay/Mumbaiā
Indore to Nepalāday 5
We set off from Indore to Kathmandu via Delhi on an early morning flight. I slept only 1.5 hrs the night before!which is why I struggled when we had to gate hop for our flightālike 3 timesāfrom one end to the other! Apparently here (and actually in London too), departure gates are constantly changingādepending on where thereās space for the plane to pull up). But finally made it aboard. First plane (Vistara) was niceāphone/tablet holder at every seat, free WiFi, great service.
Days 4/5-7āNEPALā-(please see blog post Days 1,2 NepalāNikkiās perspective)
What an experience! Went to Phoenix mall and it did not disappoint. This mall is supposed to be the best in all of MP. So many international stores and restaurants. Lots of name brands from India as well.
Waited 14 long years to have the Haldiram chili potatoes – just as good as I remembered!
I peeled an insane amount of oranges (Santra). Some were green on the outside but were ripe which I found weird. Dad and I were laughing at the pop tart bowl on twitter (not X). Iām on my first coffee and first chai of the day while I eat enough to please everyone while waiting for the second course of breakfast.
Relaxing and chill start to the day with chai while listening to the rain š Apparently having 2 rounds of breakfast everyday is something I need to get used to now – chai and toast first, then something else a little bit after (my stomach is going to explode). But not complaining, can’t be an Indore trip without jalebi!
According to one visitor to Indore from the US, eating a laddu, a type of Indian sweets, can get stuck to the esophagus if eaten without regard to chewing, i.e., swallowing whole. The visitor said he experienced this first hand from eating a laddu given to him by a relative and has been careful ingesting the sweet treat ever since. Scarred from the experience is not how he would describe it, but he says being cautious is prudent.
And how has his visit to Indore changed his perception of laddus? āThe sweets here in Indore are phenomenal,ā says the visitor who is on his second visit to India. āAs for the laddus, they are so easy to eat even if I donāt pace myself! But I will have to resume my vigilance once Iām back in the States, especially in places like Irvine, CA.ā When asked to elaborate on this comment, the visitor politely declined to expound further.
Although weāre half way around the world, being able to look up or do things on the cell phone that I would normally do at home is satisfying and awe-inspiring at the same time. The world may have shrunk by air travel, but home is everywhere with the computer in your hand.
ā¦because weāre eating two breakfasts, including jalebis and samosas. And heading out soon to eat more lunch. Imma need to climb Everest to drop these pounds.
Most of us got a solid nightās sleep, which was SO needed and are spending the day visiting family and eating WAY too much. What we thought was breakfast (toast, chai) was actually an appetizer. And two hours later, we enjoyed an amazing lunch.
And while waiting to leave, we had a fun photo session outside the house.
15 min delay (so far) for the final flight from Delhi to Indore. Everyone is tired. Some are getting goofy and delirious. Others might be irritable or zoned out.
After a 12 hour layover in London (and crashing in the AmEx Lounge), we are boarded for Delhi! It has been 23 hours since we left silver spring. Still have an 8 hr flight, 5 hours layover and another 2 hour flightā¦..
Finally on board (after a long 12 hour layover!) the second leg of our journey to India/Indore. 8hr, 8minā-hoping to get some sleep!! Or at least watch some movies.
The moment finally cameā¦we are aboard flight 22 en route to India via Londonā¦.after a gap of almost 14 years!!!! Thatās the longest Iāve gone between trips to the motherland.
It was such a joy watching Duffy as he discovered the perks of premium economyāsuch wonderment and surprise!! Warmed my heart! (Little does he realize this is NOT the norm!) Let me not forget to mention his dad when he saw āfestive baked salmonā on the menu.
As for meā¦itās now just really sinking in that Iām heading to India. The first time in my life visiting without the parentsāeither one of them. The tears are hard to fight back as I write thisā¦.
But now itās our turn to show the kids the beauty, intrigue, sights and smells of the place of their grandparents and ancestors. And maybe, just maybe, they too will finally understand why I always say āoh! It smells just like India!ā or āthis reminds me so much of India!ā or āit feels just like India!ā That is my hope, that they come back with a special place in their heart for our Beautiful India.
Little joys in lifeLike father, like son And me practicing my selfie technique
Thanks Duff for being a great travel partner as we walked the streets of London and hit the major tourist sitesāWestminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Square, China Town, London Eye, Chinatown!
Now to find a place to get some zzzzzās ā¦..
Buckingham PalaceBig BenDumplings in Chinatown (too exhausted to practice my chopsticks skills!!!)Obligatory red phone booth picLondon Eyeāfrom afar Now weāre in their country
Tried to have a drinkāgin and tonic. Had a sip or two before turning around with drink in hand to give it to Ree for a taste. Then BAM! I knocked the FULL glass and emptied its contents all over me and the seat! Thanks for DTās packaged blanket that diverted a lot of the libations away from me. And thank goodness, that my outermost layer (4 of 4) soaked up most of it!
(Oh, did I mention the ice chips I kept fishing out from my seat?!)
Iām too scared to try againā¦especially in my sleep deprived stateā¦.
1 hour before we board! Reality still hasnāt set in entirely. Itās been so long since we have travelled like this – packing for India, long long flights, long layovers, 30+ hours to reach our first destinationā¦.. so much has changed and so much hasnāt.
Gagan and Jeet are most concerned about being able to stream the Steelers game on the flight (I donāt think itās gonna happen! š¬)
Duff, Simmi, Nikki, and Jeet are all waiting at Dulles for Rena, Gagan, and Dung to be dropped off by Manu Nana. We were dropped off with the luggage and are sitting with 4 full carts of luggage
Itās been 14 years since any of us (Ree, Sim, Jeet, Duff, Nik, DT, Gee) have been to India, but due to various life circumstances, this seems like the perfect time to go. While we will have some time with family, a bulk of this trip is about exploring new destinations and revisiting special places. Weāll try to journal our daily adventures here (Internet access willing) and hope you enjoy following along.
Our rough itinerary is made up of a 12-hour stop in London on Christmas Day (weāre hoping at least a handful of Indian and Chinese restaurants will be openā¦lol). Then to Delhi and straight to Indore, Madhya Pradesh, which will be our āhome baseā to acclimate and see family.
Then itās off to Kathmandu, Nepal! Weāll be staying at the Soaltee, the very same hotel where my parents worked. Canāt wait for that! Lots of sightseeing, a day trip to Nagarkot, a hill station thatās a couple of hours outside the Kathmandu valley, from which youāre supposed to see up to eight of the top Himalayan peaks on a clear day.
Nagarkot overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. Photo Courtesy: Nepal Hiking Team
After that, itās on to Amritsar, Punjab to visit the Golden Temple, one of Sikhismās holiest shrines. Only Ree and I have been there before, so I canāt wait for everyone else to experience it. The utter peace and solace that pervades your being when you enter the doors is something I wish everyone could experience. Weāll also try to visit some other area destinations, including the Partition Museum, the India-Pakistan border, where they have a daily changing of the guard ceremony that is supposed to be a sight to behold.
From Amritsar, itās back to Delhi and an overnight trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, which weāve all been to before but the kids were much younger the last time.
Taj Mahal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Photo Courtesy: Travel+Leisure
Then itās on to Goa, which is a famous beach city with its own vibrant culture and aesthetic, influenced heavily by the Portuguese. Itās the perfect place to disconnect after several intense days of travel.
Goa has its own special vibe. The perfect place to crash and chill for a few days. Photo Courtesy: Kayak
Weāre back to Indore for a couple of days after that, and then fly back home via London from Bengaluru.
Whew! Iām tired just thinking about all of this, but also really excited. Itās been a challenging year on many fronts for all of us, and we couldnāt think of a better way to reconnect, explore and create new memories, many of which we hope to catalog here.