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  • And that’s a wrap, Morocco

    Wow, it’s so hard to believe that our adventures in Morocco are coming to a close. Time just flew by!!

    After visiting the ancient Roman ruins in Volubilis and then stopping in Meknes for a fast food lunch we are on the road back to Casablanca.

    We were sad to part ways with our amazingly knowledgeable guide Ghali. He headed back to his family and home from Meknes to Fes. Would actually recommend him to anyone visiting Morocco!

    Morocco has been so much more than I ever imagined. Actually, I don’t know if I had any real expectations, but if I did, they’ve been far exceeded.

    The people were so friendly and welcoming. The country was safe. The food was good. The hospitality was amazing! And the rich culture that is an amalgamation of all the peoples who have passed through this country was actually just so intriguing!

    Seeing Morocco was like jumping into a Time Machine. Here we traveled back in time to hundreds of millions of years ago as we learned about the Mecca of fossils. We went back thousands of years as we learned about the indigenous peoples of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, the Berbers/Amazigh (our driver Ali is from the Atlas Mountains). We stayed back thousands of years ago when the Roman Empire made its way to North Africa and flourished here until about 200 AD. The ruins—still cannot fathom that!! We visited Medinas and souks and cities going back to the 7th and 9th centuries. And we actually also experienced the post modern city of Fes (developed from 2000-2020).

    As we drove around a very large part of the country it actually felt like we were traveling through different parts of the world. The ever changing topography of Morocco was continuously transporting us all around the world. One minute we were in California or Arizona, another minute we were in Spain/Italy/France and then we were in Switzerland and sometimes even back in Ireland/Scotland!!! And I can’t leave out all the times it looked/smelled/sounded like India too!! All around absolutely breathtaking vistas!!

    I think this is one place that I’m actually feeling sad about leaving. I do believe I will be back again someday.

    Photo dumping from the last few days, actually (IYKYK) in no particular order.

    1st Full Moon of 2026–wolf moon
  • 2,300 Year Old Roman Ruins…

    …in Morocco. I didn’t realize the Roman Empire came as south as Volubilis, Morocco. This town was started in the 3rd century BC by indigenous Berber people and eventually flourished under Roman rule. It was abandoned in the 11th century AD. The site is still being excavated.

  • A Tour of Fes, Morocco

    Examples of ceramic crafts lining a staircase
    Furniture and home decorative pieces for sale
    A stall selling dried fruits and nuts
    A person making fresh fluffy flat bead
    Olives are, of course, everywhere
    Street sweet treats
    Need to sharpen your tools and knives? This is your guy. This shop is in an area that specializes in metal crafting.
    Meat market

  • Chefchouen

    On our arrival to The Blue Pearl, we were greeted with a full rainbow.

    A little info about this Smurfiest of towns:

    Chefchaouen, Morocco, is a picturesque mountain city famous for its blue-washed buildings, earning it the nickname “The Blue Pearl”. Founded in 1471, its distinctive blue color is attributed to Jewish refugees who settled there, symbolizing the sky and God, though other theories suggest it repels mosquitoes or keeps buildings cool. Visitors explore its labyrinthine medina, visit the Kasbah, hike in the Rif Mountains, and enjoy local handicrafts and cuisine in the main square, Outa el-Hammam. – Google Summary

    A typical alleyway in the iconic blue. In some locations, local entrepreneurs would wait for unsuspecting tourists to come by to help take pictures for a nominal “contribution”.

  • Desert Moments

    A camel rests while we watched the sunrise.
    Dark Helmet ordered Jeet to comb the desert.
    Standing atop a dune after a stop during a dune buggy tour: Jeet, Duff, Simmi, G, and DT (not necessarily ordered as pictured). Guide is on the right.
    Having a great time!
    Fam-7 waiting for the sun to come up.
    One of two tents that housed us for two nights. Each has a full bathroom and generous beds for sleeping. Nights were cold but heavy blankets were enough to keep us warm. Surprisingly, the sand was not an inconvenient as feared. Very fine and dry, the sand could be swept by hand from clothes easily.
  • 500 Camels Richer

    500 Camels Richer

    *I wrote this yesterday and forgot to post it when we got to the hotel my bad*

    We spent the last two nights glamping in the Sahara desert. We arrived on Thursday evening where we were able to check in and enjoy dinner in a tent with music. After dinner we went out to a fire where we listened to the people who run the camp play traditional Berber music on the drums. After they finished, they distributed drums and let us play them. One worker, Mustafa had asked us if we knew any Bollywood songs and he started humming Teri Meri so we sang as much of that as we could. We then went to sleep in layers because our tents didn’t have heat and it was in the 40’s Fahrenheit.

    The next morning we woke up early and went on a camel ride to climb some dunes and watch the sun rise. We watched the sunrise from the top of a dune and then took the camels back to the camp and chilled for a couple of hours. After lunch we went on a hike through the dunes and went sand boarding down some very steep sand dunes which was fun. We made our way back to the camp and then took a very interesting car ride to the village where we started our Dune Buggy adventure. 

    I said interesting car ride, why? Our driver would ride up the dunes as far as he could and then we would drift and slide back down the dunes. Can you imagine riding a camel through sand dunes and look over to see a Toyota 4Runner whipping up and down sand dunes blasting Tujh Mein Rab Dikhta Hai? Because that happened to some people. Apparently when people realize you’re Indian, they immediately play that song here. 

    We dune buggied where I drove alone, behind Dung Mama and Duff, and before Dad and Di. On our buggy’s gear shifter, drive is “H” which reminded me of the Simpsons clip where an Eastern European car salesman yells at homer to “Put it in H” (https://youtu.be/07vdtBMG4Kg?si=gqNBiJAVtnvPNL7H). After our dune buggy adventure where some kids temporarily stole our guides ATV, we rode back to the camp and had dinner before heading to bed. Dad also jumped off a sand dune (if I upload pictures from my camera before posting this I’ll add a pic of dad jumping). We woke up this morning, had breakfast, and are now on the road to Fes. 

    On the route to Fes, we stopped at a coffee shop to use the restroom and get coffee. While waiting for our coffee, the entertainer/barista/cashier at the shop offered me 500 camels in order for Simmi to work there. As I write this I realize that I should have accepted the offer. Imagine me with 500 camels. If I sell each one for a dollar I would be a millionaire. Or I could use them to conquer the state of Montana, what would they do, throw corn at me? 

    Maximus’ armor from Gladiator which had scenes shot in Morocco
  • Oodles of Onions!

    Onions are a major crop of Guigou. They are stored in the winter in rows and rows of organized piles. They are then sold at premium prices. If you look closely at the covered rows you can see the onions!! (Got me to thinking about my plans for gardening this year!!)

  • History of the amazing Amazigh People

    Formerly called the Berbers, Amazigh (“free people”) inhabited the Maghreb region of North Africa dating back to prehistoric times—!!!!! They were able to avoid/resist Arabization when the Arabs invaded the region.

    Despite extensive scientific research the exact origins of the Amazigh still have not been traced. Their language was originally only an oral language—-the written script came about in more recent times.

    As described below they are known for their hospitality, which we experienced first hand with the Amazigh people in the pre-desert, desert, and post-desert stops.

    Credit the internet:

    Berbers (Imazighen) are the indigenous, pre-Arab peoples of North Africa, inhabiting the Maghreb(Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya) and beyond, known for their distinct languages (Tamazight) and unique culture, often called “free people” and maintaining rich traditions in art (like carpets and tattoos) and history, despite Arabization; they use the ancient Tifinagh script and are a significant part of North African demographics, with diverse lifestyles from nomadic to settled, and are known for their hospitality. 

    Who They Are

    • Indigenous People: Berbers, or Imazighen (meaning “free people”), are the original inhabitants of North Africa, predating Arab arrival.
    • Diverse Groups: They are not a single tribe but a collection of distinct groups, including Kabyle, Chaouis, and Tuareg. 

    Location & Population

    • Home Region: The vast North African region, from Morocco to Egypt, but concentrated in the Maghreb (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya).
    • Significant Presence: Largest populations are in Morocco and Algeria, with smaller groups in Mali, Niger, Libya, and diaspora in Europe. 

    Culture & Identity

    • Language: They speak Berber languages (Amazigh), part of the Afro-Asiatic family, using the ancient Tifinagh script.
    • Art & Craft: Known for intricate pottery, weaving (Berber carpets), tattooing, and unique designs reflecting tribal identity.
    • Lifestyle: Varying lifestyles, from nomadic to settled farmers, with strong traditions of hospitality.
    • Religion: Mostly Sunni Muslim, but with historical Christian and Jewish communities, often blending traditions. 

    History

    • Ancient Roots: Deep history, appearing in ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian texts, with rock art dating back thousands of years.
    • Name Origin: “Berber” comes from the Latin barbarus, while “Amazigh” means “free people,” a name they prefer.
    • Cultural Continuity: Maintained identity despite centuries of invasions (Phoenician, Roman, Arab), with recognition growing in the 21st century. 

    More interesting information about this ancient civilization.

    (Credit: the internet)

    Some Berbers have blonde hair 

    due to a complex mix of ancient migrations from Europe and the Middle East, genetic drift, and historical intermingling with various groups like VandalsRomans, and Moors, resulting in indigenous traits appearing alongside lighter features, especially in specific tribes like the Riffians and Kabyles. While lighter hair and eyes are common in Northern Europe, similar traits also developed independently in North Africa through ancient ancestral connections and distinct genetic pathways. 

    Key Reasons for Blonde Berbers:

    1. Ancient West Eurasian Ancestry:Migrations from West Asia (Near East) brought non-African genes into North Africa as early as 30,000 years ago, contributing to lighter features in Berber ancestors.
    2. Prehistoric Cross-Mediterranean Links: Some theories suggest prehistoric movements of proto-Celtic or proto-Germanic peoples from Europe to North Africa, or vice versa, creating a genetic connection.
    3. Vandal & Roman Influence: Germanic tribes like the Vandals and Romans conquered parts of North Africa, adding European genetic markers that persist today.
    4. Genetic Drift & Local Adaptation:Blonde hair (and light skin/eyes) can arise from genetic variations (mutations in melanin genes) that are maintained in populations, sometimes favored by climate or historical isolation.
    5. Population Mixing: Over centuries, Berbers mixed with Arabs and other groups, further diversifying their appearance, though the base genetic heritage remains distinct, notes SchoolNet South Africa

    Examples:

    • Tribes like the Ghomara, Riffians, and Kabyles are known for having members with European-like features, including blonde hair, blue eyes, and lighter skin. 

    In essence, the blonde features in some Berbers aren’t from a single source but a complex interplay of deep history, ancient migrations, and unique genetic adaptations within North Africa. 

  • Switzerland of Morocco

    Continuing through Maghreb region of Morocco where Berber (preferred Amazighs=Free people) inhabit the area—we drive through the Switzerland of Morocco at an elevation of 7000 ft in the Middle Atlas Mountains.

    Simmi did her obligatory TikTok dance while some of us made snowballs and pelted them at others (of course I didn’t do that!)

    • Sahara to Fez

      Sahara to Fez

      Day number “?”, Saturday Jan 3.

      We’ve left the warm, sunny days and cold nights of the breathtaking Sahara desert dunes and are driving northeast through ever changing landscapes of Morocco on our way to Fez. Words and pictures do not do justice to the sites we’ve seen or the amazing experiences we’ve had or the hospitality we’ve felt.

      A few glimpses….sunset, campfire with traditional Berber folk music, sunrise camel rides, exploring the dunes, sand boarding, dancing, jumping, dune buggy rides, more music/fire/dance, farewells, and then finally back into the High Atlas Mountains

    • Near Algeria

      The other side of this mountain range is Algeria. About 40 mi from where we will be staying.

    • Sahara

      Almost there!! Feeling emotional!

    • Most ancient irrigation system…

      Just experienced something so amazing, I have to write about it before I forget! Back in the 9-10th century, an oasis was created out in a remote area on the way to the Sahara. Essentially an underground river was created by digging “khattaras”. From the outside they look like dunes, mounds or huge anthills. In actuality, the ground was dug until water was found – I naively thought it was a well. Oh no, it is much more. The first khattara, closest to the oasis, may have been 12 feet deep. When that dried another one was dug next to it but deeper and so forth. Underground, they are all connected – hence an underground river. People had to go down the holes regularly to remove soot, dirt, etc that may impede the flow of water to the oasis.

      The source of water? River from mountains far far away.

      Unfortunately, the khatarras have all dried up – allowing scenes from Mission Impossible 5 to be shot here.

      If we were allowed to, would have loved to explore how far we could go into the “tunnel”.

    • Kasbah of Tifoultoute

      On our way to Ouarzazate for a one-night stay before heading to a glamping experience in the Sahara, we stopped by this famous Kasbah, which appeared in some famous Hollywood films and TV series. Kasbah used to mean a secured compound to protect local leaders or wealthy locals. Now it can also mean luxurious homes.

      Look down into the courtyard.
      Look up from the courtyard.
    • Amazing Rug

      Presented as a wall hanging in the lobby of the AMANAR Ouarzazate Boutique Hôtel & SPA in Ouarzazate, Morocco, this rug’s design is striking. I had to stop and admire it.

    • Trivia

      Did you know Punjab, India, shares a unique feature in their public bathrooms with Morocco? If you’ve consumed this blog before, then you already know the answer: tall urinals!

      I may have to pack a foldable step stool for my next international trip.

    • Palace in Marrakech

      This is the courtyard of Dar el Bacha, a Palace in Old Marrakech. The fountain is the central point of the palace, which is now a museum. Among the plants and flowers in the courtyard are many bitter orange trees.
    • Leather Crafting

      A Man Working on a Manual Machine to Press Leather in Marrakech.
    • Marrakech Bellhops

      Our Stay in Marrakech Was in the Heart of the City, Which Meant No Cars or Vans Could Traverse the Small Streets and Alleyways. These Workers Served as “Bellhops” to Take Our Bags to Our House Rental. Here, We Were Leaving to Meet Up with Our Driver and Tour Guide.
    • Fake Shack

      The colors and headline font are spot on but the body copy for the menu items seems off. 🥸

    • Casablanca

      Hassan II Mosque, One of the Biggest Mosques in the World. The Square Tower is Distinctive to Morocco Mosque Architecture, as Most Towers are Round.
      Inside the Mosque. There is A Floor Beneath Which Houses Many Fountains for Cleansing Before Prayers. Above in This Picture is a Sliding Roof to Let in Natural Light and Takes About 5 Minutes to Open.
      The Mosque Standing Mostly in Sea Water and Supported by Massive Concrete Pillars Was Built This Way to Emphasize Water’s Importance in Sustaining Life. Construction Began in 1986 and Took 7 Years to Complete.
    • Next stop Ouarzazate

      On Dec 31 we will make our way to Merzouga to experience the Sahara Desert, taking a one night break in Ouarzazate where we will ring in the New Year. From there we will drive the next morning to Erg Chebbi —our desert luxury camp where we will spend 2 nights. We are still finalizing our desert activities, but will arrive at the camp grounds via 4×4 jeep, do sand boarding, desert sunset camel ride, desert sunrise, 4 hour tour of the area and local villages and their people, dune buggy adventures, dinner and traditional live music etc! I am soooo excited about this part of the trip!!!

      A bit about Ouarzazate—

      (Credit google search)

      Ouarzazate is a city in south-central Morocco, known as the “Door of the Desert” and a major film-making hub with large studios and desert landscapes used for movies like Gladiator and Game of Thrones. It serves as a gateway to the Sahara and Draa Valley, featuring attractions like the UNESCO World Heritage site Aït Benhaddou, kasbahs, and the Noor solar power station. The city is a functional base for desert excursions, offering a mix of traditional culture and modern amenities. 

      Key features 

      • Film industry: Home to Atlas Film Studios, it’s a popular location for international film and TV productions, with sets that can double for ancient Rome, Egypt, and other locations. 
      • Gateway to the desert: A primary starting point for trips into the Draa Valley and the Sahara, with tours for camel riding and exploring dunes. 
      • Historic sites: Features historic kasbahs like Taourirt and Tifoultoute, and the nearby Aït Benhaddou, a fortified village and UNESCO site. 
      • Culture: A blend of Berber and Moroccan culture, with vibrant markets (souks) and a central square (Place Al-mouahidine) that comes alive at night. 

      A bit about Erg Chebbi

      (Courtesy Wikipedia)

      Erg Chebbi (Arabic: عرق الشبي) is one of Morocco‘s several ergs – large seas of dunes formed by wind-blown sand. It is located on the far western edge of the Sahara Desert.[1] There are several other ergs in Morocco, such as Erg Chigaganear M’hamid.

      In places, the dunes of Erg Chebbi rise to 150 meters from the surrounding hamada (rocky desert) and altogether span an area of approximately 28 kilometers from north to south and 5–7 kilometers from east to west lining the Algerian border.[2]

      The nearest sizable town is Erfoud, about 60 kilometers further north. One other city is Rissani, around 40 kilometers from Merzouga. Rissani was the site of a kingdom known as Sijilmassa, which became prosperous from the 8th to the 14th century due to its control of the caravan routes.

      Although rainfall is not very common, in 2006 flooding adjacent to the dunes destroyed many buildings and killed three people.

      The desert adventure awaits!!!

    • “Snakes. Why did it have to be snakes!”

      So all along the trip, our tour guide and Rena had warned us NOT to take photos of street performers and vendors and other attractions because it was sure to lead to a request for money.

      Stupid me saw snakes several feet away and decided that I had to have a photo. The snake charmer noticed me taking a quick pic and proceeded to ask me for money. And I had zero cash and apologized profusely but he wasn’t having it so he wished bad luck on me (seriously). And Ree was NOT happy with my actions so she handed me a 100 note – the smallest she had – which amounts to approximately $10. So I went back and handed it to the guy and he grabbed my phone and made us pose a few feet away and took some photos, handed me back my phone and wished good luck upon us.

      And asked for more money.

      I really should be better about follow the advice I’m given. But it’s a story to tell, I suppose.

    • Traditional Moroccan Food

      Tuesday Dec 30 started with a traditional Moroccan breakfast prepared by personal chef Lubna in our Riad. What a feast she prepared for us!!!

      The next Moroccan meal was at a Moroccan restaurant. The vegetable tagine, vegetable cous cous and orange soup were delicious!! Such a satisfying meal!!! Adding harissa made it all even tastier!!

    • Marrakech, Marrakesh—an ancient city

      Today (I’m not even sure what day it is anymore!!) was devoted to exploring the ancient city of Marrakech which dates back to the 7th/8th century. We learned about various architecture styles, how the ancients lived, studied and cultivated their crafts. We visited the local palace (where apparently the Prince was sighted!!). We were learned about local oils/spices—-and walked away with a bag full of ancient remedies purported to keep us youthful, beautiful/handsome and strong!! (Rena and I proved that we are definitely our mother’s daughters). We then learned about the ancient art of carpet weaving and how to differentiate the styles from different regions and peoples of Morocco—-here we were more our Father’s daughters and walked away empty handed!

      Finally headed back to the Riad to freshen up for dinner which was at an Indian restaurant—Bombay Marrakech for a scrumptious dinner! We were pleasantly surprised by how amazing the food was!! The owner and chef has been operating this restaurant for the past 20 years!! The food was just sooo good!!

      To close out the night, Rena, Jeet and I ventured out on our own in pursuit of some shopping. What a sweet shopkeeper where we made our purchases.

      And now we’re back, to call it a night so we can be well rested for our next stop (Ouarzazate) en route to the Sahara desert!!

      Good night all!!

    • Day 3? 2? I don’t know

      Day 3? 2? I don’t know

      We spent a full day out in Marrakesh today. We were able to go to a Medersa which was essentially a dorm for students that studied at the nearby mosque. We then were able to go to a Moroccan restaurant for lunch where we got tagines, soups and couscous. After lunch we headed to a palace where the Governor of Marrakesh used to live. We walked through the palace that was built in 1920 and went to a famous coffee shop that is located in the palace’s courtyard called Bacha coffee. While walking through the markets on our way from one destination to another, someone started singing “Tujh Mein Rab Diktha Hai” from Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi at us, and I looked at him and finished the verse. He started laughing and we continued on our way. We went to an Indian restaurant for dinner, and as we were leaving lo and behold, the same song started playing.

    • Fam-7 Travels Continue!

      Good morning from Marrakech Morocco!!

      I’m writing this from the rooftop of our Riad as the quiet of the night starts to lift. First the repeated “cock-a-doodle-doos”—then the chirping birds, voices of people talking, scooter horns beeping, cars driving by and now a hum of a city that is revving up to burst into frenetic action!

      We experienced the city’s energy last night as we drove in from Casablanca. We were met first by a traffic jam that almost rivaled that of Indore’s jam last year!! Except this time we were in an 18-seater mini bus rather than in an open rickshaw 🛺!! Typical rush hour traffic was compounded by soccer fans from around the world who came to witness Morocco play against Zambia in the Africa Cup Tournament! (Morocco won 3-0).

      Once we finally made it to the Medina, we had to travel by foot through the bustling souks and crowded maze-like narrow alleys to find our oasis. 13 pieces of luggage were carted through the chaos by 2 locals (such hard work!!)

      Weaving through merchants, monkey acrobats, musicians, fresh fruit vendors, hawkers, legless beggar, cafes and restaurants, soccer fans and so much more we finally arrived at our Riad! What a lovely home!!

      Already late for dinner, we took a quick minute to freshen up, made our way to dinner at an an Italian restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel. Dinner was delicious—-but service was sooo laid back and slow!! After nourishing ourselves it was time to tackle the traffic back to our Riad. And boy was there traffic—-the streets were full of jubilant fans who were proudly waving Moroccan flags from their cars in celebration of their victory. What a sight!!

      Finally back at the Riad it was time to settle in for the night, reflect on the day and call it a night so we can start all over again the next day!!

    • A Dream come true

      I had always dreamt of visiting Morocco—-ever since I saw this country featured in a Smithsonian summer Folklife festival. I was mesmerized by a traditional dance performance—the sounds, colors, rhythms—-and it didn’t hurt that the men were oh so handsome!!! Finally a dream made true!!

    • Photo Dump—Hassan Mosque and misc— Casablanca

      Visit to Hassan mosque on Dec 29.

      Read Rena’s post on the history of this amazing architectural feat constructed over the span of 7 years by 20,000 artisans who worked in shifts 24-7.

      Such a calm and tranquil feeling set in as we stepped onto the grounds.

      The artistry and craftsmanship was just indescribable!

    • Hassan II Mosque

      What an amazing morning – we visited the second largest functioning mosque in Africa (also 14th largest in the world). The minaret was the world’s tallest until neighboring Algeria built one slightly taller (competition?). The mosque took 10,000 artisans 7 years to build. They worked in shifts 24 hours a day. Everything is handmade/carved and all materials were sourced from Morocco – except for the chandeliers which came from Italy.

      At one time, up to 105,000 people can pray at the mosque – inside and on the esplanade. An amazing fact – this mosque was built extending over the Atlantic Ocean. Yes, OVER, the ocean. It is a beautiful site to see the waves from the esplanade.

      At the center of the prayer hall, there is a retractable cedar roof. It is massive and operated by a remote control. This mosque is a unique combination of ancient artistry and modern technology. Interesting fact – the minaret has two elevators rather than the traditional steps.

      Fun fact: I could see the minaret from our hotel room in the middle of the night – we were pretty far away…..

      Here is a photo dump from the visit.

    • Sleepless in Paris…

      Landed in Paris and we are hanging out at the airport for a couple of hours before boarding for Casablanca. I don’t think anyone really slept on the flight over so today should be interesting…

      Rena is on a quest to get us into a lounge. Don’t think it’s happening though. 🤷🏾‍♂️

      UPDATE: It didn’t happen.

    • Fam-7 is off once again!

      This year our travels will take 7 of us all around Morocco (including 2 nights in the Sahara!) and 5 will continue onto Madrid for a few days. On our way to the airport – stay tuned for our adventures…..

    • Storm Chasing

      Weather is tough to predict in Ireland and we had a private car to cliffs of moher and some other spots. Storm Amy was coming our way but our driver said we should be OK. We were driving in some rain and as we got closer to the cliffs we heard they would be closing around noon and major part of storm would be coming through at 2 pm. We were rushing to get a peak of the cliffs and move on. It was truly an adventure and the wind gusts were impressive. We saw some beautiful areas of the country and most importantly made it back safe!

    • Edinburgh Castle

      Last day in Edinburgh we went into the Castle. Incredible history and beautiful views. This was built as a fort to protect the city and also has a prison and Castle where Mary of Scot lived. There was also the crown jewels of Scotland on display. At 1 pm they fire a cannon which alerted the ships at sea of the time.

    • Dublin and a Loch Ness Sighting

      Vegas-Style Presentation of Guinness Storehouse
      A Shell Picked from the South Dublin Bay
      Trinity College Library
      Setting Sun on Ha’Penny Bridge in Dublin
      A Coke by Any Other Name
      Often Cited, Seldom Sighted

    • Catching up….Dublin

      Arrived in Dublin last night—in a small propeller jet where we were greeted with lots of rain.

      But we were blessed with the best weather today for our guided walking tour of Dublin with an awesome guide Dave—a 4th generation Dubliner! Thank goodness we didn’t have to navigate stairs like we did in Edinburgh! This was followed by a trip to Trinity College and the Book of Kells Experience —unimaginable how the monks created this book and even more astonishing is how it remained so well preserved.

      This was followed by a walk across the famous Ha’penny Bridge —Dublin’s first dedicated pedestrian bridge over the River Liffey, built in 1816. Toll to cross the bridge was a “half penny”—hence the name.

      The day was rounded out with dinner at the Church Cafe/Bar/Restaurant with an amazing live performance of traditional Irish Music and Dance.

      Here are a few pictures from the day. Starting with the secret garden on our hotel property and ending at the hotel and everything in between.

    • Some Scenes from Dublin

      A very full day with a walking tour of the city, a hunt for Steelers gear and an amazing restaurant which used to be an ancient church. More pics from my fellow travelers to follow but here are some of mine.

      Our hotel is a former mansion with English-style gardens.
      I feel seen.
      The Irish declaration of independence.
      Long live Sinead.
      The Long Room at Trinity College. Amazing.
      Trinity College quad. Simply gorgeous.
      We came here. Now you come there.
      Sunset on the Liffey.
      Tourist selfie.
      Sliante!

    • Inverness

      Took a day trip to the Highlands and visited Inverness. Train ride was amazing – saw the transitions from the low to highlands, gorgeous sunrise and lots of sheep and cows!

      Gagan and I took a tour of an active highland distillery – fascinating and very educational. Actually learned the real way to taste whiskey – I’m still not converted, but it didn’t taste as terrible as before!

      Pics in the next post!

    • Inverness!

      Took a scenic train to Inverness in the Highlands in the early morning. Beautiful small city with a beautiful river in the center. Legends of the lochness monster. Spent a great day learning about Scottish history at MacGregors Pub. Spent the rest of the day walking around the river.

    • Some Photos…

      Panoramic view of downtown Edinburgh from the castle.

    • Made it to Dublin

      Sorry. We’ve been laxed in posting but here’s a quick rundown. We enjoyed a thorough self-guided tour of the Edinburgh castle. Overwhelming and impressive.

      Then it was on to a quick lunch at Bertie’s World Famous Fish and Chips before hilling and heading to the airport.

      We landed in rainy Dublin last night and were wiped out. The plan for today is to do a walking tour of various sites in the city, including Trinity College and other sites. We’ll post photos soon!

      -g

    • Solo Morning

      When everyone is still sleeping and you can’t, Edinburgh is a great city to walk around and enjoy beautiful views. Did the royal mile and Carlton Hill. It was a beautiful morning.

    • Edinburgh or Film Set?

      Sounds so cliche, but I feel like we are walking around a movie set in Edinburgh. It is amazing. Living around DC, our history goes back to around the late 1700s or early 1800s. Here, we are looking at the 1100s!

      The most amazing thing is they have preserved that look. No crazy high rises mixed in within the city. Streets are all cobblestone. Newer buildings are not ultra modern looking near the historic sites.

      I love the mix of history and nature. We hiked to Arthur’s Seat – or close to it for some of us! The views were breathtaking. Gudu has gone to Carlton Hill this morning while the rest of us have a leisurely morning. He sent pics of ruins set in beautiful green hills. Sorry to have missed it!

      To say Edinburgh is “quaint” is an understatement. People have been super nice and hospitable. Stores in the city area and malls shut down around 6 pm – imagine it lends to a good work life balance. I wonder how life is outside the tourist areas.

      I truly understand why people say Edinburgh is one of their favorite cities to visit.

      Pics from the past two days to follow.

    • Hike and Palace

      Wow, what a morning! Off to an early start hiking up to Arthur’s Seat. Challenging on the way up but worth it for the incredible views!

      Then we were off to Holyrood Palace which was built over 900 years ago. The royal family’s home when they visit Scotland.

      Edinburgh is such a walkable city but maybe too much for one day! Now a quick rest!

    • A Brisk Hike on a Chilly morning

      Just after 8 am, we embarked on a hike up to King Arthur’s Seat, a magnificent vantage point offering 360-degree views of Edinburgh. We split up, with the guys taking a much steeper route that was a quick reminder that I have to work on my cardio in a big way. That was followed by a much easier descent and a nice brunch. We then toured the Holyrood palace.

    • Some Pics from First Day in Edinburgh

      Figure outside of St. Giles
      Inside St. Giles…
    • Back in Time

      It feels like we took a Time Machine back to the 15th century but then you look around and see all the signs of modern life. So far, Edinburgh feels like an odd juxtaposition, with centuries-old castles and churches right next to modern bars and restaurants.

      Our hotel is within a few steep steps of the castle and right on the Royal Mile.
      Spectacular views of King Arthur’s Seat, where we will be hiking tomorrow.
      St. Giles Church. Incredible exterior and beautiful interior!
      I feel like something called The Ratho Murderer needs to be a six-part limited Netflix series.
    • First Impressions – Scotland

      Airport security was a breeze and we all piled into a taxi where the driver was astonished by our amount of luggage. The accents are amazing and I think everyone hear will start singing a Nial Horan song! Air is crisp and refreshing and they drive on the wrong side of the road. Off to a fun start!

    • And We’re Here

      Tough flight. We really missed the comfort of premium economy and I was bummed that there wasn’t complimentary prosecco and a hot towel but whatevs. I think it should be standard on any international flights lasting more than four hours.

      It’s a beautiful day in Edinburgh. Not the rainy, grey weather it’s known for, so we’ll take it.

      Okay. I gotta crawl under my seat to find a missing AirPod! More soon.

    • Wheels Up!

      We’ll say hi from Edinburgh!

    • Here We Go Again…

      Except this time it’s a bunch of empty nesters going to Scotland and Ireland.

      The original intent was to go to the Steelers-Vikings game in Dublin but sticker shock quickly set us straight. And then we thought, “why don’t we just go to Dublin and watch the game at a Steelers pub and experience everything else?”

      And then double sticker shock set in with hotels booked solid and hella expensive, so we switched. itineraries and are hitting Edinburgh first and then Dublin once the football crowd clears out.

      Thanks for following along as we check out the Scottish highlands, Inverness, King Arthur’s Seat, and so many other cool places.

      More to come…

      -G

    • Bittersweet Goodbyes

      Perhaps one of the most memorable moments for me on this trip was when we were leaving. Trust me, I don’t mean it in a bad way….

      Through out the day, family members came over to spend time with us before we had to leave. Visits began early and continued through out the day. Multiple family members came to the airport to see us off. They stood outside watching us until we were finished with checking in and seeing our bags off. They stayed and watched until they knew we were okay and off to security.

      For the first time, the kids got to experience what we did multiple times while growing up. They felt the warmth, sincerity and unconditional love from so many people. Simmi was in awe of how many people came to see us off. Gagan and I were feeling super blessed that family came from out of town just to spend a few hours with us.

      It was a bittersweet see-off. Wonderful memories and new relationships formed – especially for the kids. So blessed the kids had the opportunity to experience India and family and finally understand what we always talk about. AND they now know what we mean by “it smells just like India”!!

    • Ready to Return

      …and from the looks of it, we’re bringing half of India back with us.

    • Road Trip to Khachrod

      Tractor with one-of-a-kind canopy
      Lunch in Khachrod
      As cute as this little one looks, she’s somehow even cuter when she speaks!
      House decoration
      Street sweets
      Fruit shopping
      Some locals who were kind enough to pose
      All kinds of fruits
    • Jam

      I have learned the meaning of this word all too much in the past two days. Indore is riddled with “jam” everywhere. Getting from point a to point b has become near impossible by car, auto, 2-wheeler and even foot.

      Jams being caused by anticipated arrival of politicians, religious functions, construction…. Apparently the population of Indore when from 1,000,000 14 years ago to 4,000,000 today.

      We have lost so much time sitting in traffic, making u-turns, purposefully going the wrong way against oncoming traffic, etc. It has been entertaining listening to our auto drivers screaming instructions to everyone.

      This is not the Indore I remember. It’s too scary to walk on the roads – 7 of us walked single filed while dodging traffic yesterday. Note to future travelers – add 2 hours to every visit/errand you plan to do just for traffic.

    • People

      Hard to believe our Nepal-India touring is done. Sadly we are leaving Goa for our last few days in Indore before heading home.

      We have visited many places, seen many sights and met many incredible people along the way. People who have shown kindness, humility and graciousness in their own ways. People I hope to remember for many years.

      I won’t forget the Soaltee Kathmandu dining staff who actually did a farewell for us before leaving – cake with a message wishing us a safe journey. The Soaltee Nagarkot staff who were so helpful in helping us get medical care.

      In Amritsar, Chef Mani was very generous with his food knowledge. He also me the secret to his incredibly yummy Amritsari Chole. We are connected on WhatsApp and he’s offered to help with any food questions we have in the future. One of his staff members, Dipali, packed us fruits and snacks for our travels.

      At the Golden Temple, I will remember the kind children who were asked to give up their spots for Jeet and me to do seva. They patiently waited and told me to take my time.

      In Goa, we became friends with some of the servers – Debashish and Suraj in particular. At times, they work 20 days continuously without any time off. Both jokingly said they would come to the US and visit us. I said absolutely and gave them my phone number – I don’t think they expected that.

      On the hotel beach, a group of ladies were selling fresh coconut water, other fruits and offering massages. We bought coconut water from them at 6 pm and they said it was their first sale of the day. Jeet and I told them we would be back. The next morning we walked to the beach and they saw us from far away and started waving. We bought 5 more coconuts from them and they were so thankful and happy to have made a sale in the morning.

      All of our drivers and guides were so kind and generous with their time. Our last driver in Goa, Isaac, drove 20 minutes back to the Goa airport to deliver Simmi’s purse she left on our rented bus. He didn’t need to do that by any means, but he did it without any hesitation.

      I won’t forget the lady simmi and I met in a street side shop selling clothes in Goa. We were chatting and she told us her daily routine. Very rigorous and no breaks – day starts at 7 am and goes on until 2 am. I didn’t bargain with her – as long as she continued to educate her children. She promised to and then told us all about her three children and their interests.

      We meet so many people along the way in life – some leave a lasting impression. I am thankful to have met so many of those people on our journey.

    • TMZ’ed

      Not G’s finest moment. Arrested for driving while lost and confused.

    • Traffic Jam of Traffic Jams

      On our way back from shopping, we got swallowed up in a jam so thick, you’d have thought a Smucker’s 18-wheeler jackknifed and spilled its guts everywhere.

      Our cab stuck in the middle of an intersection with no escape route in any direction. The best you can do is centimeter along (India uses the metric system after all) and honk to pretend like it’s doing something.

    • More of Indore, Galore

      Traffic Cop Mostly Watching
      Napping Before the Rigor of Shopping
      Letter E Found!
      Dried Goods
      Street Foods
      Shopping for Men’s Suits
      Hung Fabric Goods
      Mule Took a Break So G Stepped In
      Motorcycles Rule
      Women’s Tops for Sale
      Dark (But Safe) Alley
      Well Traveled
      Surana Shop for Condiments and Snacks
      Munchies
      And More
      Bangles for Sale
      A Local Helping Another Local Load
    • Driveway of Vimla Bua’s House

      View from house looking at driveway into access road
      Pretty sight along the driveway
      Building blocks across from driveway
      Gagan posing for his new album cover of “Lost and Confused“, his first solo release in years. 95% discount if you use code AINTGOTACLUE.
      Tourists….you can spot ‘em from a mile, er, street away.

    • Slightly concerning

      Scene from an Uber in indore

    • And Just Like That, We’re Back in Indor(e)!

      Interestingly (or amusingly) on our way home from the airport, I noticed this declarative sign in town. No, the city has not changed its name, but it does need a search-and-rescue for the missing letter, which also amusingly sounds like a segment on Sesame Street: Today’s show is brought to you by the letter, E.

    • My First Complaint of This Trip

      We’re leaving Goa today (as I’m writing this) and I’m reminded of the many, many wonderful things, some even exceeding my expectation. But the horse-and-carriage of a van, looking like a full-sized tour bus chopped in half and serving as our only mode of transportation, was, however, not one of those wonderful things.

      The suspension system for wheeled vehicles, invented so many civilizations ago, somehow escaped the design specifications of this van. Sitting over the second axle of this van is like saddling up on a fully galloping horse chasing down errant cattle. If not fastened, small children and body parts fly like you’re on a turbulent flight hitting an unsettled pocket of air.

      It’s not hyperbole to describe some bumps as lifting one’s body out of the seat, resulting in momentary “free fall” as one astute fellow traveler noted. If you have seen the original Exorcist where the possessed girl bounces on her bed with limbs a-flailing, you get the idea.

      Not helping matters is the fact that speed bumps in Goa come in sets of six. Yes, you read that correct. Six bumps. Two axles times six bumps equal lots of thrashing.

      For what it’s worth, though, I do respect the hustle of our driver. For his own comfort over these speed bumps, as soon as he clears his front axle from the last of the six speed bumps, throttling the gas with great care and precision, it’s full-on, rocket ship-like acceleration as soon the front wheels touch even tarmac. Unscathed by the experience each time around, I wonder if our driver is even aware of the plight of his passengers. Still, our tip for his services will be generous.

    • Another one (DJ Khaled)

      So if you haven’t heard the theme of this trip has been Lucky. We now have 5 on this trip!

      There was the driver to Amritsar, Luckwinder Singh.

      There was the suit (desi) salesman Lucky Bhatia

      There was the brand of drinking glasses called Lucky

      There was a server at the breakfast restaurant in Goa named Lucky

      And the fifth one you may ask? Me! One of Nana’s sisters thought I (Manjeet) was named Lucky. Will we see any more?

    • Stalker Alert

      LaLiT seems to let some sus people on the premises…saw this strange man taking pictures of us through the bushes.

    • Golden Temple!

    • Rural Punjab

    • Goa Pics – Enjoy!

    • More from Goa

      While one of us recovers from a stomach bug and another stays back to nurse them back to health, the rest of us took a short trip to explore Goa. more pics to come from others’ cameras soon.

      Driving from South Goa to North Goa through the mountains.

      Dolphin watching in the bay.

      Simmi at the Fort Aguada lighthouse, built by the Portuguese in the 1600s.
      The moat surrounding the fort.
    • Tragedy in Nepal

      Wow. Just saw the news that there was a 7.1 magnitude earthquake in Tibet, not far from Kathmandu, where we were mere days ago. We remember our tour guide showing us centuries-old structures and temples that had to be rebuilt after major earthquakes. He told us that they preferred more frequent, smaller earthquakes over larger, more infrequent ones since the damage was less drastic. Not sure where this one ranks, but 156 people killed is tragic nonetheless.

    • Greetings from Goa

      We went from the Himalayan steppes to a coastal beach and gorgeous sunshine and warm breezes. We’re going to hang here for the next couple of days to give everyone time to recover from the strenuous travel of the last few days. Can’t say we miss the snow back home.

    • G’s Amritsar Reflections

      After our flight from Delhi to Amritsar was canceled abruptly by Air India, resulting in us walking over two miles (no kidding, Jeet tracked it), we Ubered to a Hyatt in Delhi and Ree hastily arranged for a private luxury bus for our weary group the next morning via our amazing travel agent (more on him in a separate post).

      The next morning we set out on a nearly nine-hour drive through Haryana, stopping for an authentic Punjabi lunch at Mannat, a chain of authentic modern dhaba style restaurants in Punjab and Haryana. After which we all dozed off in the car due to the heavy carb consumption.

      At Ambala, we had to detour through fields, farms and villages because a strike had shut down a portion of the highway. But that in itself was an unexpected and pleasant experience, because it let the kids get see firsthand what villages and rural areas really look like.

      We arrived in Amritsar after a brief stop for chai in a different haveli style area.

      After a solid night’s sleep, we were off to visit the golden temple on Gurpurab, one of the holiest days of the year. No surprise that the gurudwara was extra crowded, but despite that, the calm and peace that pervaded everyone was palpable. Additionally, we got a thorough tour of the temple and even had an opportunity to do seva (service) in the kitchen, which serves over 100,000 hot meals daily to visitors. I’d imagine that number was much higher on the day we were there.

      A short walk from the temple, we visited the Partition Museum, which was an altogether sobering experience. Learning about the political machinations that displaced millions after India’s independence, reading firsthand accounts of the grueling journeys from Pakistan to India, families torn apart and how the spirit of those displaced resulted in pioneers and new lifestyles hit close to home.

      We then drove to Wagah Border, where there is a daily ceremony of lowering of flags and a “show-down” between Indian and Pakistani soldiers. Definitely more theatrical than anything else, but very entertaining.

      We ended the night with shopping for Punjabi suits and kurta pajamas. For. Two. Hours.

      All in all, we packed in a LOT in a day, though if I had to do it over, I’d say we could easily have spent a couple of more days in Amritsar taking our time to explore this amazing and history-laden city.

      We’re now hanging out at Delhi Airport (we can tell you where every restaurant, every coffee shop and every restroom is located since we’ve been here four times now in the last week or so), waiting for our flight to Goa for some beach time.

    • Much Ado ‘Bout Laddu

      Killing some time at the Delhi airport, I wandered across these choke hazards. Indian lore says that this sweet used to be square in shape and made in wooden blocks as far back as 10 AD. The story furthers tells of a village man who choked many times eating his favorite treat, which prompted the village high priest to declare in 11 AD that laddus shall no longer be square. He decreed that it shall be round for safety as he believed it would be easier to ingest.

      Fast forward to 2022 AD when a man in the US choked violently almost to the point of suing his relative.

      As a public service to help newbie’s learn about the safety of eating laddus, I have created this scale called the Likelihood of Choking Rating (LCR):

      LCR 1 – safe to consume without liquid

      LCR 2 – safe to consume only with a preceding dry swallow

      LCR 3 – have a warm liquid by your side

      LCR 4 – if you want to disown a family member

      LCR 5 – suicide

      This year the laddu treat is celebrating its 740th year of existence. What could you do to make laddus better for you, too?

    • Aim High

      We just got back to Delhi waiting for our connecting flight to Goa. While Delhi airport has had its share of challenges, I do appreciate the normal height of the men’s urinal stalls. Back in Punjab, all the native men are tall apparently as I had to tippy toed when using the “washroom”. Or apply physics by aiming at an angle greater than 30 degrees to employ the parabolic trajectory to safely land the stream of…well, you know.

    • Shoe Check

      Not bad halfway into the trip, with lots of outdoor walking and rain.

    • Quintessential shopping experience

      A trip to India is not complete without the quintessential shopping experience where you sit on gaddis, have shopkeepers cover the entire surface with colorful clothing of intricate and delicate designs.

      Rena and I have done this countless times—-and it’s been a blast every time. So glad that the kids and hubbies had a chance to have this experience as well. Everyone walked away with at least 2 new outfits/outfits to be stitched. One of my favorite elements has always been when the shopkeepers bring out the cold drinks, chai or coffee for you (they want you to get comfortable so you spend more money!!). We spent so much time there that we had to abort other shopping plans because the shops had closed!!

    • New campaign slogan?

      “Beti bachayo. Beti padhao” translates to “Spare/save the daughter. Educate the daughter” is seen on nearly every single truck here.

      It’s about time!!

    • The Beltway Ain’t Got Nothing on Ring Road

      Note to self: stop complaining about commutes (the snarls!) when you get back home. Though the photo below doesn’t do the traffic justice.

    • Loaded trucks

      The truck loads on desi trucks never ceases to amaze and terrify me in the same instant. How do they not topple over?!

      (And this is still a relatively mild case)
    • Amritsar bound!

      On our way to Amritsar—by road. At least an 8 hour journey. Super excited about the sites we will see along the way and for the chance to see the countryside. Sure will be a relief to get out of this suffocating fog/smog mix.

      Feel sooooo bad for the people who actually live in this atmosphere. Hate to even think about the long term health effects and their shortened life expectancies.

      At sunrise time
      Some improved visibility later in the morning
      On our “bus”
      The view ahead
    • Respect

      Morning in Delhi
    • My Contribution to the Delhi Air

      In the aftermath of this picture, I was able to clean my feet to pristine-USA condition. At the time of this photo, however, my wife didn’t want to sit next to me.

    • What are we even looking at??

      Good morning from Delhi.

      What are we even seeing??

      The fog/smog is soooo thick that this is the view from our room. That’s not sky I took a pic of. It’s supposed to be the hotel grounds. Even getting the pic without reflection of my phone was not possible.

      Delhi air at 7:15 am. See bottom right where the ledge is visible.

    • Pho Real? In Kathmandu?

      The Vietnamese noodle soup phenomenon knows no border. Its ubiquity is rivaling the global reach of Starbucks by the day.

    • Weary travelers

      Cancelled flight. Going in circles around this huge a** airport to get luggage, new flights etc. If we get an early morning flight, that too may end up with cancellation issues again due to visibility problems. Let’s see what magic Rena and Gagan have up their sleeves!

      This one really brings back memories from previous India trips!!
    • Third time at Delhi Airport

      Flight was delayed from Nepal to Delhi. Now, just found out that flight to Amritsar is cancelled tonight because of visibility concerns in Amritsar. Heading to domestic baggage to retrieve our checked bags. Trying to figure out next steps!!

      (LITERALLY going from one and of the airport to the other!! AND no people mover in this direction!).

    • Nagarkot—days 3 & 4 in Nepal—part 2

      Now that we got through the serious part our Nagarkot stay, it’s time to focus on the real reason we came to Nagarkot.

      Nagarkot is a remote area, at an elevation of 6000-7100 ft!! Approximately 35-45 kilometers from Kathmandu, passing through Bhaktapur. After leaving Bhaktapur we started the ascent up the mountains. The roads got narrower and bumpier the higher we went. Neither words nor pictures can do justice to what we all were blessed enough to witness in this lifetime.

      Not only were we surrounded by nature’s majesty, but we also breathed air that was amazingly cool, fresh, and crisp. The hotel grounds were also beautiful, with gorgeous views of the mountains from our cottage’s picture window. A daring person may even choose to enjoy the views from the infinity pool on site—mind you, NOT a heated pool!! Or take advantage of the spa—as did Duffy, for his first ever massage, which was apparently an experience of its own!

      As expected, the hospitality and service left nothing to be desired. The food was good, but less variety for the vegetarians in the group. It was more of a Chinese influenced menu. Not sure if it was because of the region, or because of the large group of Chinese tourists who also checked in the same night—that’s what a staff member alluded to.

      As I mentioned, Nagarkot is quite remote. The people of this area are known as Tamang people . The language they speak is different than what’s spoken in Kathmandu. The facial features are also more East Asian. (Duff felt like he blended in here more than in Kathmandu and even more than in India). They are described as being a self-sufficient group. They grow all that they consume—produce and meat. And hence do not have a reason to leave the area. We saw many tiered farms. The people here are said to be wealthier than people of Kathmandu—because of all the land that they own. Here also, most families do want to send their children for education—something else we may take for granted back in the states—but some may not have the means.

      Aside from the views and the general energy, one of the most memorable times I had here was when all 7 of us shared our thoughts and experiences of Nepal and what really made a strong impression on us, and what we will bring back with us to implement in our daily lives. So much bonding!! This is exactly what I wanted out of this trip for us all!

      Nagarkot Photo Dump—in no particular order. Effects on the mountains of sunset and sunrise were captured. (Pics Will come when I have better connection)

    • More Nepal Pics

    • !!BREAKING NEWS!!

      Flight to Amritsar cancelled! Our correspondents say it is likely because of low visibility in Amritsar and the family is scrambling to resolve this issue. More news coming soon.

      Update! After walking to security from gate 60 we received permission to pick up our bags… from gate 60 so we went back and… went back to baggage claim! We traveled roughly 2 miles according to google earth. We are currently waiting for mother to sort out a hotel and our upcoming travel to Amritsar.

    • Nagarkot—days 3 & 4 in Nepal—part 1

      Breathtaking and surreal views like never seen before—only way to describe this place. The air was crisp, clean (and of course very thin!) and so fresh at an altitude of nearly 6000 ft. Most of us did experience some symptoms of adjusting to the higher altitude, some more than others. Almost to the point of seeking medical care, but thankfully some hydration, chicken broth, rest and meds helped reduce the symptoms.

      BUT, that doesn’t mean we didn’t have to seek medical attention for other reasons—and frankly speaking, the inciting incident had us all freaked out.

      It all started when we decided that all of us would try and cross a 200+ meter long suspension bridge known as Rani Ka Jhoola. Once parked, one must go down a gravelly/rocky dirt road to get to the bridge. It’s a fairly steep downhill to get there. We had barely advance 15-20 ft when BAM!! Rena lost footing and slipped—landing on the right knee! (Those damn knees are taking a beating!!) Unfortunately, a decent sized rock decided it was going to put a nice gash in Ree’s knee! The whole gang banded together. One got my first aid supplies that I packed, another got the driver’s first aid kit. Someone else got a fresh bottle of water. And someone else helped Ree lay down and get as comfortable as possible (definitely didn’t need her OR anyone to faint!) while others chanted Navkar mantra with her.

      My assistant (DT) helped as I assessed, cleansed, and dressed her wound while I was weighing our options on next steps and how to get her appropriate medical care in this foreign, remote place. Thankfully her joint seemed unaffected and she was able to get up with assistance and walk. And the injury was far from life threatening. So, those were all definite positives.

      Needless to say, nobody traversed Rani Ka Jhula. Instead, we headed back to the hotel and asked the staff where we could get medical attention. They suggested we go to a clinic about 3 km further up. Once a plan was put in place and things were stable, we all took some time to feed ourselves and watch the sunset and witness a breathtaking sight.

      During this time however, DT was not able to fully take in these sights as he was plagued with symptoms of altitude sickness—headache, weakness, body aches, tachycardia, GI symptoms etc. He was feeling so bad and weak we had to constantly remind and urge him to eat. Thankfully he had some improvement, and managed to get back to the room and rest while I went with Ree to the clinic.

      After the sunset, Rena, Gagan a local driver took us to the clinic. Despite the situation, we were able to take in some amazing views on the way up…terrifyingly close to the edge of the rocky, bumpy road!!

      Finally, we got there and informed the 2 ladies behind the counter why we were there. I showed them pictures of the wound. They quickly called the “doctor”. While we waited for him, they took us back to the exam room….wow. It was both terrifying and humbling at the same time. We talk and complain about the US health system being broken—but at least we have a health system and basic hygiene!!

      One of the ladies came in the room, pulled out a syringe to draw up some lidocaine in preparation for suturing. Disinfecting the bottle was not about to take place until I asked for it. And what was the disinfectant?? It was a hazy liquid inside of a dusty, dented bottle labeled “75% sanitizer”. As I questioned that, she reassured me it actually contained “spirit” (ie alcohol) in it. Ok. Being in the spiritual land of Nepal, I had no other choice but to muster up faith and to believe. (All the while thinking—“why didn’t I bring our own supplies here?!”)

      A few minutes later, a gentleman arrived by motorcycle. Very kind person. Turns out he wasn’t a physician. Rather, he was a pharmacist and and H.A. (Not sure what that is)…oh boy….and not to mention language barrier…. The 3 of us looked at each other and quietly decided that we would not allow any suturing to take place here!

      The pharmacist examined the area in question. Assessed her knee for possible internal injuries. And kept repeating “it’s normal” “it’s ok” and I can’t recall what else. But the gist was that it’s not so bad. He and I cleansed the injury with betadine and bandaged her back up. We paid him his fees and graciously took our leave as we made plans to go to a well known hospital—DRIM— of Bhaktapur in the morning before going to the airport.

      DRIM hospital (read about Dr. Iwamura—https://www.iwamurahospital.com/overview/) is a privately run hospital. Dr. Binod took a brief history, formulated his plan, wrote us orders and supplies. Gagan went to register Rena and I went to the pharmacy next door and brought back supplies. Thankfully except for some foreign debris that needed to be washed out, all else was straight forward. Rena did end up getting a few stitches. We pooled together our remaining Nepali rupees for the fees. As we profusely thanked Dr. Binod for his care and compassion we walked out with a sigh of relief as well as some souvenirs (X-rays, doctors orders and notes…).

      Did I mention how amazing Dr. Binod was?!

      This whole experience was eye opening—we already knew about differences in healthcare and availability compared to the USA. But to live it firsthand definitely puts things in real perspective. It reminds us of how fragile life is, and that not everyone has access to medical care in a timely fashion when needed. Thankfully this was not life threatening. I can’t even begin to imagine what the locals go through to get even to most basic of care. I’m also super thankful for the doctors who responded with recommendations and reassurances to my FB post on the Physicians Community page. One even offered to contact his orthopedic friend!

      I do believe everything happens for a reason. And in this case, had we made it to Rani Ka Jhoola, I think we would’ve had a much more serious situation with DT and altitude sickness. So Ree, thanks for taking one for the team!!!

      But Fam-7, let me be clear now, no more injuries or anything else—this doctor would also like to be on vacation too! 😉 (seriously—-ALWAYS here at your service, day or night, on the ground, or 30,000 ft in the air!). Love you all—just be well and healthy.

      (Fyi—out of respect for weak stomachs, I am leaving out gory pics—-if interested, I will show you in person).


      At the clinic—after it was cleaned

      Gagan there for Rena (I was honestly worried about him passing out and having another situation to deal with!!)
      Another Angle
      After DRIM hospital today. That’s some cool dressing he used!! (They let me keep what was not used)
      “Souvenirs”
    • Hello from the (Nearly) Top of the World

      We’re getting ready to get back to the airport but I’m feeling a little wistful about not having more time in Nagarkot. But I’m grateful for the time we did spend here, despite a few of us having altitude sickness and a few other ailments.

      Words and photos can’t describe the beauty and vastness of the majestic Himalayan peaks you can see from this village nestled atop the mountains. It must be experienced to truly do it justice.

    • The art of sipping—finally figured it out!!

      I’m officially a true blooded Desi now!!

      Piping hot tea—-sipped it all in a few minutes! First time ever!!