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I have learned the meaning of this word all too much in the past two days. Indore is riddled with “jam” everywhere. Getting from point a to point b has become near impossible by car, auto, 2-wheeler and even foot.

Jams being caused by anticipated arrival of politicians, religious functions, construction…. Apparently the population of Indore when from 1,000,000 14 years ago to 4,000,000 today.

We have lost so much time sitting in traffic, making u-turns, purposefully going the wrong way against oncoming traffic, etc. It has been entertaining listening to our auto drivers screaming instructions to everyone.

This is not the Indore I remember. It’s too scary to walk on the roads – 7 of us walked single filed while dodging traffic yesterday. Note to future travelers – add 2 hours to every visit/errand you plan to do just for traffic.

Hard to believe our Nepal-India touring is done. Sadly we are leaving Goa for our last few days in Indore before heading home.

We have visited many places, seen many sights and met many incredible people along the way. People who have shown kindness, humility and graciousness in their own ways. People I hope to remember for many years.

I won’t forget the Soaltee Kathmandu dining staff who actually did a farewell for us before leaving – cake with a message wishing us a safe journey. The Soaltee Nagarkot staff who were so helpful in helping us get medical care.

In Amritsar, Chef Mani was very generous with his food knowledge. He also me the secret to his incredibly yummy Amritsari Chole. We are connected on WhatsApp and he’s offered to help with any food questions we have in the future. One of his staff members, Dipali, packed us fruits and snacks for our travels.

At the Golden Temple, I will remember the kind children who were asked to give up their spots for Jeet and me to do seva. They patiently waited and told me to take my time.

In Goa, we became friends with some of the servers – Debashish and Suraj in particular. At times, they work 20 days continuously without any time off. Both jokingly said they would come to the US and visit us. I said absolutely and gave them my phone number – I don’t think they expected that.

On the hotel beach, a group of ladies were selling fresh coconut water, other fruits and offering massages. We bought coconut water from them at 6 pm and they said it was their first sale of the day. Jeet and I told them we would be back. The next morning we walked to the beach and they saw us from far away and started waving. We bought 5 more coconuts from them and they were so thankful and happy to have made a sale in the morning.

All of our drivers and guides were so kind and generous with their time. Our last driver in Goa, Isaac, drove 20 minutes back to the Goa airport to deliver Simmi’s purse she left on our rented bus. He didn’t need to do that by any means, but he did it without any hesitation.

I won’t forget the lady simmi and I met in a street side shop selling clothes in Goa. We were chatting and she told us her daily routine. Very rigorous and no breaks – day starts at 7 am and goes on until 2 am. I didn’t bargain with her – as long as she continued to educate her children. She promised to and then told us all about her three children and their interests.

We meet so many people along the way in life – some leave a lasting impression. I am thankful to have met so many of those people on our journey.

Scene from an Uber in indore

Interestingly (or amusingly) on our way home from the airport, I noticed this declarative sign in town. No, the city has not changed its name, but it does need a search-and-rescue for the missing letter, which also amusingly sounds like a segment on Sesame Street: Today’s show is brought to you by the letter, E.

So if you haven’t heard the theme of this trip has been Lucky. We now have 5 on this trip!

There was the driver to Amritsar, Luckwinder Singh.

There was the suit (desi) salesman Lucky Bhatia

There was the brand of drinking glasses called Lucky

There was a server at the breakfast restaurant in Goa named Lucky

And the fifth one you may ask? Me! One of Nana’s sisters thought I (Manjeet) was named Lucky. Will we see any more?

LaLiT seems to let some sus people on the premises…saw this strange man taking pictures of us through the bushes.

We just got back to Delhi waiting for our connecting flight to Goa. While Delhi airport has had its share of challenges, I do appreciate the normal height of the men’s urinal stalls. Back in Punjab, all the native men are tall apparently as I had to tippy toed when using the “washroom”. Or apply physics by aiming at an angle greater than 30 degrees to employ the parabolic trajectory to safely land the stream of…well, you know.

A trip to India is not complete without the quintessential shopping experience where you sit on gaddis, have shopkeepers cover the entire surface with colorful clothing of intricate and delicate designs.

Rena and I have done this countless times—-and it’s been a blast every time. So glad that the kids and hubbies had a chance to have this experience as well. Everyone walked away with at least 2 new outfits/outfits to be stitched. One of my favorite elements has always been when the shopkeepers bring out the cold drinks, chai or coffee for you (they want you to get comfortable so you spend more money!!). We spent so much time there that we had to abort other shopping plans because the shops had closed!!

“Beti bachayo. Beti padhao” translates to “Spare/save the daughter. Educate the daughter” is seen on nearly every single truck here.

It’s about time!!

The truck loads on desi trucks never ceases to amaze and terrify me in the same instant. How do they not topple over?!

On our way to Amritsar—by road. At least an 8 hour journey. Super excited about the sites we will see along the way and for the chance to see the countryside. Sure will be a relief to get out of this suffocating fog/smog mix.

Feel sooooo bad for the people who actually live in this atmosphere. Hate to even think about the long term health effects and their shortened life expectancies.

Good morning from Delhi.

What are we even seeing??

The fog/smog is soooo thick that this is the view from our room. That’s not sky I took a pic of. It’s supposed to be the hotel grounds. Even getting the pic without reflection of my phone was not possible.

Delhi air at 7:15 am. See bottom right where the ledge is visible.

Cancelled flight. Going in circles around this huge a** airport to get luggage, new flights etc. If we get an early morning flight, that too may end up with cancellation issues again due to visibility problems. Let’s see what magic Rena and Gagan have up their sleeves!

Flight was delayed from Nepal to Delhi. Now, just found out that flight to Amritsar is cancelled tonight because of visibility concerns in Amritsar. Heading to domestic baggage to retrieve our checked bags. Trying to figure out next steps!!

(LITERALLY going from one and of the airport to the other!! AND no people mover in this direction!).

Now that we got through the serious part our Nagarkot stay, it’s time to focus on the real reason we came to Nagarkot.

Nagarkot is a remote area, at an elevation of 6000-7100 ft!! Approximately 35-45 kilometers from Kathmandu, passing through Bhaktapur. After leaving Bhaktapur we started the ascent up the mountains. The roads got narrower and bumpier the higher we went. Neither words nor pictures can do justice to what we all were blessed enough to witness in this lifetime.

Not only were we surrounded by nature’s majesty, but we also breathed air that was amazingly cool, fresh, and crisp. The hotel grounds were also beautiful, with gorgeous views of the mountains from our cottage’s picture window. A daring person may even choose to enjoy the views from the infinity pool on site—mind you, NOT a heated pool!! Or take advantage of the spa—as did Duffy, for his first ever massage, which was apparently an experience of its own!

As expected, the hospitality and service left nothing to be desired. The food was good, but less variety for the vegetarians in the group. It was more of a Chinese influenced menu. Not sure if it was because of the region, or because of the large group of Chinese tourists who also checked in the same night—that’s what a staff member alluded to.

As I mentioned, Nagarkot is quite remote. The people of this area are known as Tamang people . The language they speak is different than what’s spoken in Kathmandu. The facial features are also more East Asian. (Duff felt like he blended in here more than in Kathmandu and even more than in India). They are described as being a self-sufficient group. They grow all that they consume—produce and meat. And hence do not have a reason to leave the area. We saw many tiered farms. The people here are said to be wealthier than people of Kathmandu—because of all the land that they own. Here also, most families do want to send their children for education—something else we may take for granted back in the states—but some may not have the means.

Aside from the views and the general energy, one of the most memorable times I had here was when all 7 of us shared our thoughts and experiences of Nepal and what really made a strong impression on us, and what we will bring back with us to implement in our daily lives. So much bonding!! This is exactly what I wanted out of this trip for us all!

Nagarkot Photo Dump—in no particular order. Effects on the mountains of sunset and sunrise were captured. (Pics Will come when I have better connection)

Flight to Amritsar cancelled! Our correspondents say it is likely because of low visibility in Amritsar and the family is scrambling to resolve this issue. More news coming soon.

Update! After walking to security from gate 60 we received permission to pick up our bags… from gate 60 so we went back and… went back to baggage claim! We traveled roughly 2 miles according to google earth. We are currently waiting for mother to sort out a hotel and our upcoming travel to Amritsar.

Breathtaking and surreal views like never seen before—only way to describe this place. The air was crisp, clean (and of course very thin!) and so fresh at an altitude of nearly 6000 ft. Most of us did experience some symptoms of adjusting to the higher altitude, some more than others. Almost to the point of seeking medical care, but thankfully some hydration, chicken broth, rest and meds helped reduce the symptoms.

BUT, that doesn’t mean we didn’t have to seek medical attention for other reasons—and frankly speaking, the inciting incident had us all freaked out.

It all started when we decided that all of us would try and cross a 200+ meter long suspension bridge known as Rani Ka Jhoola. Once parked, one must go down a gravelly/rocky dirt road to get to the bridge. It’s a fairly steep downhill to get there. We had barely advance 15-20 ft when BAM!! Rena lost footing and slipped—landing on the right knee! (Those damn knees are taking a beating!!) Unfortunately, a decent sized rock decided it was going to put a nice gash in Ree’s knee! The whole gang banded together. One got my first aid supplies that I packed, another got the driver’s first aid kit. Someone else got a fresh bottle of water. And someone else helped Ree lay down and get as comfortable as possible (definitely didn’t need her OR anyone to faint!) while others chanted Navkar mantra with her.

My assistant (DT) helped as I assessed, cleansed, and dressed her wound while I was weighing our options on next steps and how to get her appropriate medical care in this foreign, remote place. Thankfully her joint seemed unaffected and she was able to get up with assistance and walk. And the injury was far from life threatening. So, those were all definite positives.

Needless to say, nobody traversed Rani Ka Jhula. Instead, we headed back to the hotel and asked the staff where we could get medical attention. They suggested we go to a clinic about 3 km further up. Once a plan was put in place and things were stable, we all took some time to feed ourselves and watch the sunset and witness a breathtaking sight.

During this time however, DT was not able to fully take in these sights as he was plagued with symptoms of altitude sickness—headache, weakness, body aches, tachycardia, GI symptoms etc. He was feeling so bad and weak we had to constantly remind and urge him to eat. Thankfully he had some improvement, and managed to get back to the room and rest while I went with Ree to the clinic.

After the sunset, Rena, Gagan a local driver took us to the clinic. Despite the situation, we were able to take in some amazing views on the way up…terrifyingly close to the edge of the rocky, bumpy road!!

Finally, we got there and informed the 2 ladies behind the counter why we were there. I showed them pictures of the wound. They quickly called the “doctor”. While we waited for him, they took us back to the exam room….wow. It was both terrifying and humbling at the same time. We talk and complain about the US health system being broken—but at least we have a health system and basic hygiene!!

One of the ladies came in the room, pulled out a syringe to draw up some lidocaine in preparation for suturing. Disinfecting the bottle was not about to take place until I asked for it. And what was the disinfectant?? It was a hazy liquid inside of a dusty, dented bottle labeled “75% sanitizer”. As I questioned that, she reassured me it actually contained “spirit” (ie alcohol) in it. Ok. Being in the spiritual land of Nepal, I had no other choice but to muster up faith and to believe. (All the while thinking—“why didn’t I bring our own supplies here?!”)

A few minutes later, a gentleman arrived by motorcycle. Very kind person. Turns out he wasn’t a physician. Rather, he was a pharmacist and and H.A. (Not sure what that is)…oh boy….and not to mention language barrier…. The 3 of us looked at each other and quietly decided that we would not allow any suturing to take place here!

The pharmacist examined the area in question. Assessed her knee for possible internal injuries. And kept repeating “it’s normal” “it’s ok” and I can’t recall what else. But the gist was that it’s not so bad. He and I cleansed the injury with betadine and bandaged her back up. We paid him his fees and graciously took our leave as we made plans to go to a well known hospital—DRIM— of Bhaktapur in the morning before going to the airport.

DRIM hospital (read about Dr. Iwamura—https://www.iwamurahospital.com/overview/) is a privately run hospital. Dr. Binod took a brief history, formulated his plan, wrote us orders and supplies. Gagan went to register Rena and I went to the pharmacy next door and brought back supplies. Thankfully except for some foreign debris that needed to be washed out, all else was straight forward. Rena did end up getting a few stitches. We pooled together our remaining Nepali rupees for the fees. As we profusely thanked Dr. Binod for his care and compassion we walked out with a sigh of relief as well as some souvenirs (X-rays, doctors orders and notes…).

Did I mention how amazing Dr. Binod was?!

This whole experience was eye opening—we already knew about differences in healthcare and availability compared to the USA. But to live it firsthand definitely puts things in real perspective. It reminds us of how fragile life is, and that not everyone has access to medical care in a timely fashion when needed. Thankfully this was not life threatening. I can’t even begin to imagine what the locals go through to get even to most basic of care. I’m also super thankful for the doctors who responded with recommendations and reassurances to my FB post on the Physicians Community page. One even offered to contact his orthopedic friend!

I do believe everything happens for a reason. And in this case, had we made it to Rani Ka Jhoola, I think we would’ve had a much more serious situation with DT and altitude sickness. So Ree, thanks for taking one for the team!!!

But Fam-7, let me be clear now, no more injuries or anything else—this doctor would also like to be on vacation too! 😉 (seriously—-ALWAYS here at your service, day or night, on the ground, or 30,000 ft in the air!). Love you all—just be well and healthy.

(Fyi—out of respect for weak stomachs, I am leaving out gory pics—-if interested, I will show you in person).

I’m officially a true blooded Desi now!!

Good morning and Happy New Year.

Off to Thamel today for last minute shopping for early risers. Then heading to Nagarkot in the hopes of seeing the peaks of the Himalayas as well as the sunrise tomorrow morning before returning to Kathmandu for travel to Amritsar.

Words that come to mind when I think about my experience in Nepal these 2 days.

Hospitality beyond expectation—whether it is from the hotel staff, our amazing guide, the driver, restaurant staff, shopkeepers or countless others—so much positive energy, that one cannot help but return that positivity to the universe. The standard greeting is Namaste.

Energy—the energy here is permeated with positivity. One forgets negative thoughts and feelings.

Spirituality—centuries old Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas are found throughout the region along with the many followers. One will experience the frenetic energy of the Hindu temples and the calm and peace of the Buddhist temples. Either way, presence of a higher energy is inescapable. I was especially moved when we were blessed enough to experience the prayers and chanting by Buddhist monks.

History—rich ancient history throughout this region (Kathmandu). The juxtaposition of ancient buildings alongside modernization. The history of Nepal has led it to become a melting pot of cultures which coexist in harmony. As a result of the influence and migration of Indians, Chinese, Aryans, Persian, Europeans and more, the natives of Nepal (Newars) are now in minority. The people of Nepal have features and appearances that are as varied as the nations that have influenced the country. The food is also reflective of this melting pot. Nepal is believed to have the best momos of all.

Equality/Respect—Nepalis worship goddesses first and foremost. Hence, women/females are highly regarded in society, and are considered the stronger and more important sex—51% vs 49%. As a result, it is a very safe nation for girls and women. Females will also be found in every line of work—military, police, flight pilots, doctors, teachers, etc. A dowry system is non-existent. All girls are sent to school for education.

Organized Chaos—crowds, traffic, animals are found throughout. Yet, it is not a nervous energy—everyone finds a way to effortlessly weave in/out to get from point A to point B. The laws in place contribute to this organized chaos—unnecessary horn blowing is against the law. As is driving faster than 55 km/hr. All drivers of 2 wheelers must wear a helmet (not sure why the passengers are not required to).

Beauty—natural beauty surrounds the area (unfortunately pollution obscures the view). Beauty of the history and ancient architecture. Beauty of the people.

A wonderful day to a wonderful night! So happy Gagan was able to come back to Kathmandu finally and show us his old stomping grounds. Watching Gagan take it all in made my day.

We had a nice rooftop dinner (brrrr) and came back to the hotel to find live music under the stars. The singer was amazing and seemed to know my playlist because he sang all of my favorites.

If you look carefully, you can see the snowy peak of the Himalayas in one of the pics.

Breathtaking beauty from the sky…

The Commanders are stalling our transfer to the flight to Kathmandu 😂

And we’re back to foggy Delhi for a little layover on our way to Kathmandu.

I’ve been a bit lax in blogging, so it’s time to do a dump!

What a whirlwind week it has been!! 40 hour journey from Silver Spring to Indore via London and Delhi, with a trip out into London during a 12 hour layover.

Indore—days 1-4/5

So much love and gracious hospitality from numerous relatives filled our 4-5 days in Indore. (And scrumptious food OVER-filled our stomachs!!). It was so charming how DT quickly learned the tradition of manvar—which is an expression of hospitality and love in the form of offering food, feeding others. And so heartwarming to see the kids’ faces every time they discovered something new. The food is as expected—scrumptious!! Making up for 14 years of missing out (unfortunately the waistline is proof!!).

(Somehow I earned the duty of morning chai for the gang—the first day I made chai 5-6 times!!! But I’m a quick learner, and started making at least 10 cups at once—-with my signature masala turmeric, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, LOTS of ginger, and now also Vimla Bhua’s chai masala! YUM!)

Now, one cannot come to India and not shop—at least I can’t! But shopping in India has been transformed from 14 years ago!! High end malls with designer labels and brand names and so much more as we experienced in Phoenix Citadel Mall. Then the countless shops on the roadsides! Such a dizzying array of shops! Thankfully, we managed to get a good start on the shopping already—but still so much more to buy!!

Aside from the obvious changes in infrastructure, shops, cleanliness and modernization seen in Indore, the most striking change is the traffic. It reminds of the traffic we’d seen in Mumbai decades ago—-Indore is definitely living up to its title of “Little Bombay/Mumbai”

Indore to Nepal—day 5

We set off from Indore to Kathmandu via Delhi on an early morning flight. I slept only 1.5 hrs the night before!which is why I struggled when we had to gate hop for our flight—like 3 times—from one end to the other! Apparently here (and actually in London too), departure gates are constantly changing—depending on where there’s space for the plane to pull up). But finally made it aboard. First plane (Vistara) was nice—phone/tablet holder at every seat, free WiFi, great service.

Days 4/5-7–NEPAL—-(please see blog post Days 1,2 Nepal—Nikki’s perspective)

I peeled an insane amount of oranges (Santra). Some were green on the outside but were ripe which I found weird. Dad and I were laughing at the pop tart bowl on twitter (not X). I’m on my first coffee and first chai of the day while I eat enough to please everyone while waiting for the second course of breakfast.

According to one visitor to Indore from the US, eating a laddu, a type of Indian sweets, can get stuck to the esophagus if eaten without regard to chewing, i.e., swallowing whole. The visitor said he experienced this first hand from eating a laddu given to him by a relative and has been careful ingesting the sweet treat ever since. Scarred from the experience is not how he would describe it, but he says being cautious is prudent.

And how has his visit to Indore changed his perception of laddus? “The sweets here in Indore are phenomenal,” says the visitor who is on his second visit to India. “As for the laddus, they are so easy to eat even if I don’t pace myself! But I will have to resume my vigilance once I’m back in the States, especially in places like Irvine, CA.” When asked to elaborate on this comment, the visitor politely declined to expound further.

After more than 40 hours, we reached home. Everyone struggled but managed to stay awake until tonight. Pics from Indore airport:

15 min delay (so far) for the final flight from Delhi to Indore. Everyone is tired. Some are getting goofy and delirious. Others might be irritable or zoned out.

Finally on board (after a long 12 hour layover!) the second leg of our journey to India/Indore. 8hr, 8min—-hoping to get some sleep!! Or at least watch some movies.

The moment finally came…we are aboard flight 22 en route to India via London….after a gap of almost 14 years!!!! That’s the longest I’ve gone between trips to the motherland.

It was such a joy watching Duffy as he discovered the perks of premium economy—such wonderment and surprise!! Warmed my heart! (Little does he realize this is NOT the norm!) Let me not forget to mention his dad when he saw “festive baked salmon” on the menu.

As for me…it’s now just really sinking in that I’m heading to India. The first time in my life visiting without the parents—either one of them. The tears are hard to fight back as I write this….

But now it’s our turn to show the kids the beauty, intrigue, sights and smells of the place of their grandparents and ancestors. And maybe, just maybe, they too will finally understand why I always say “oh! It smells just like India!” or “this reminds me so much of India!” or “it feels just like India!” That is my hope, that they come back with a special place in their heart for our Beautiful India.

Thanks Duff for being a great travel partner as we walked the streets of London and hit the major tourist sites—Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Square, China Town, London Eye, Chinatown!

Now to find a place to get some zzzzz’s …..

Merry Christmas from London!!

Tried to have a drink—gin and tonic. Had a sip or two before turning around with drink in hand to give it to Ree for a taste. Then BAM! I knocked the FULL glass and emptied its contents all over me and the seat! Thanks for DT’s packaged blanket that diverted a lot of the libations away from me. And thank goodness, that my outermost layer (4 of 4) soaked up most of it!

(Oh, did I mention the ice chips I kept fishing out from my seat?!)

I’m too scared to try again…especially in my sleep deprived state….

Zzzzzzz…..

1 hour before we board! Reality still hasn’t set in entirely. It’s been so long since we have travelled like this – packing for India, long long flights, long layovers, 30+ hours to reach our first destination….. so much has changed and so much hasn’t.

Gagan and Jeet are most concerned about being able to stream the Steelers game on the flight (I don’t think it’s gonna happen! 😬)